I am on a train right now to the airport in Amsterdam. I feel like that’s all I can write right now, but I am going to make myself say a little bit more about this experience as a whole. When I was leaving I was so excited that I was scared and that made me feel like not even going, but I am so glad that I did!
Now! An inventory!
Trip Length: 42 days (that’s 42 days off in a row!)
Cities Visited: 20- Munich, Germany; Prague, Czech Republic; Vienna, Austria; Bratislava, Slovakia; Budapest, Hungary; Athens, Greece; Rome and Milan, Italy; Barcelona, Sitges and Figueres, Spain; Paris, France; Amsterdam, Leiden, Den Haag and Delft, Holland; Leuven, Brussels and Antwerp, Belgium; and London, England
Best/Worst:
Munich- Best: Oktoberfest Worst: Not a lot to do, although I’m sure this had a lot to do with the fact that I was only there during the fest.
Prague- Best: Public Art. They had really unique contemporary art all over the city. No need to pay for a museum when the city pays for you! Worst: None! Loved it!
Vienna- Best: Classical Music History. Worst: They rely pretty heavily on their history and it was cool, but I’d like to know what they are doing NOW. Ya know, in THIS millenium...
Bratislava- Best: Wonderful underground club scene that is easily accessible to outsiders. AND the city is CHEAP! Worst: This is not necessarily a negative, but they are new to the E.U. and going to the Euro in 01/09; I’m scared the whole undiscovered charm will fade. It’s going to be the new Prague, I think.
Budapest- Best: Friendly locals! I lucked out by meeting some really cool people who showed me around. Also, you can’t miss the thermal baths, which are pretty cheap for how luxurious they are. Worst: It will suck you in! I had to scrap my plans for going to Romania AND Turkey because I would NOT leave!
Athens- Best: Club scene! A city notorious for its nightlife! And obviously the ancient ruins are one of the world’s wonders. Worst: No complaints! Nothing was too pricy and it was easy to get around and see it all! Oh! It’s hard to spend any time relaxing, as going out is so much fun.
Milan- Best: Happy Hour! The apertivo is the best way to start a night on the town that I’ve ever experienced; it is a trend that should definitely catch on! Worst: Sadly, my few days in Milan were the worst in my life; nothing went right! I promise I do not hold this against her though. I will try again!
Barcelona- Best: GAUDI! He was a genius and really inspiring. Worst: Even though I speak fluent Spanish, Catalan is impossible to decipher. Thank God the people speak Spanish, too!
Sitges- Best: The food! We ate fabulous paella and all of the tapas we ate were equally good. Also, the local bars feel much more authentic than a lot of other touristy beach towns. Worst: Since it is so gay-friendly I imagine it would be a bit challenging for young, straight singles to find each other.
Figueres- Best: The Salvador Dali Museum is one of the best I’ve ever been to. Worst: That is the only reason to visit this town....
Paris- Best: Food and Wine. There really is no competition here, and for me to admit that is saying something; I don’t even like Paris! Worst: The Parisians. Come off it already! We get it- you’re French & Fab, but the sneering is really off-putting...
Leiden- Best: A real “mini Amsterdam.” They have the markets, coffee shops, and canals of the big city, but in a more relaxed setting. Worst: It is a University town, so that crowd is definitely there. For me, this is no problem, but it’s worth mentioning.
Amsterdam- Best: Alternative culture. Nothing is off limits, but surprisingly, this makes you much less interested in pushing them. Worst: It is easy to get overwhelmed by all of the unique attractions. But seriously, who ever complained about too much fun?
Den Haag and Delft- Best: Quaint shopping streets and beautiful cityscapes. Worst: Nothing! Fun little towns to visit for a day!
Leuven- Best: The architecture of the old city center- unlike anything I’ve ever seen! Worst: The nightlife is pretty much all students. Again, I was perfectly happy with this, but some might find it annoying.
Brussels- Best: The BEER! Every bar had great beers, and it was a fab time trying to taste them all :) The brewery tour I did was also amazing. And the food! FRIES, CHOCOLATE, WAFFLES, MUSSELS!!! Worst: None! I was in Heaven!
Antwerp- Best: Amazing shopping district of wide pedestrian avenues lined with beautiful buildings. Worst: Nothing. Was just there for a bit.
London- Best: The city is full of options- anyone can find anything and everything they desire! It is totally diverse in every way and obviously one of the world’s cultural centers. Worst: Um. Nothing. At all. I felt so at home in London.
Which brings me to my closing spiel.
After my LOOOONG EuroTrip, I’ve decided that it is time to relocate across the pond indefinitely- to Londontown!! Yep, it is a big step for me, but it is one that I am excited to make. This trip really expanded my horizons, and even changed my life, I guess. I just feel like the world is huge, but it’s not so big that leaving the familiar takes you too far away to come back home if/when you need to...
-H*
Tuesday, November 11, 2008
Monday, November 10, 2008
Living, Laughing, Loving LONDON
Believe it or not, I am already leaving after a fab London weekend. My how time flies! Arriving turned out to be much more of a hassle than I anticipated- no phone and no idea how to meet up with my friends! And rain. But no worries, I quickly resorted to begging and was able to bum a phone from a couple strangers to call the gang and meet up. Thursday, a normally tame(ish) night for the working crowd, turned out to be quite a party! I have to admit though, it felt more like a homecoming than a welcome! I am really in love with London...
The next day was all about relaxation. I ordered a pizza- my first delivery of the whole trip!- and watched a movie. When I finally left the house, I have to say I noticed something in the foggy London air that night- something UGLY! As we scanned the crowd at this cute little bar, we noticed that there were NO attractive people in the whole place! Seriously- no one even CLOSE!
We started to feel anxious, scared even! We became depressed and our conversation suffered. No joke, topics of the night were- Anne Frank, The Killing Fields, messy break-ups, the Holocaust, and when we started talking about what Hell must be like, we realized that we were already there, and that it was definitely time to flee the place! It was an early night and the 12-hour sleep that followed was desperately needed!
Saturday was fab! We greeted the day, or rather the midday, with excitement and headed to the Tate Modern to view some art. As a quick aside, the little sammy I ate for lunch was ham, brie, and cranberry jam on baguette- AMAZING! The museum was also amazing, from head to toe a real beauty. We checked out the whole place and even the special collection of this Brazilian artist, all courtesy of Miss Woodita, who comped our tickets! Bless her!
Later we went to the lounge at the National Film Theater for drinks. There were portraits of all sorts of famous actors on display, and it made me want to be a glamorous theater star :P Later, we met some friends and did Saturday night proud. Our crowd grew and I got to share a few laughs with a beautiful Venezuelana, a lovely and hilarious couple, a rock star vinyl boy, and oh so many others! I think our little corner was lively and laughs too loud and colorful and happy and planning dinner parties for the next day and the whole time snapping photos and what a joy!
I stayed up late listening to records, but still managed to get up some what early. Sunday, my last day :( was perfect! I watched Elf, which I had always wanted to see, with my friend Graham and then we went to the London Aquarium. For whatever reason I picked up this pamphlet on the train from the airport a few days earlier and it had a 2 for 1 coupon for the Aquarium- score one for me for being prepared; that never happens!
We looked at pink and orange fish and a manta ray jumped out of the water to speak to us and the piranhas didn’t even scare me and there was a fish that looked like a silk dress and turtles and fish so big they looked like they could swallow a dog and I WAS scared of the sharks and it was all so beautiful. After hours of staring we sort of ambled through the arcade next door, seeing the flashing lights chase like tropical fish. Dazed, we made our way out, I with my souvenir squishy squid and shoelace charm, and Graham with some gummy candies.
We actually went through with our drunken dinner plans from the night before and Woo and Rach had us all over for a fab shepherd’s pie with sweet potato mash and broccoli and sparkling vinooooo and the whole works! Of course the night ended with a snuggly pile up and then sadly, goodbye for now hugs. Next morning- the departure :(
The next day was all about relaxation. I ordered a pizza- my first delivery of the whole trip!- and watched a movie. When I finally left the house, I have to say I noticed something in the foggy London air that night- something UGLY! As we scanned the crowd at this cute little bar, we noticed that there were NO attractive people in the whole place! Seriously- no one even CLOSE!
We started to feel anxious, scared even! We became depressed and our conversation suffered. No joke, topics of the night were- Anne Frank, The Killing Fields, messy break-ups, the Holocaust, and when we started talking about what Hell must be like, we realized that we were already there, and that it was definitely time to flee the place! It was an early night and the 12-hour sleep that followed was desperately needed!
Saturday was fab! We greeted the day, or rather the midday, with excitement and headed to the Tate Modern to view some art. As a quick aside, the little sammy I ate for lunch was ham, brie, and cranberry jam on baguette- AMAZING! The museum was also amazing, from head to toe a real beauty. We checked out the whole place and even the special collection of this Brazilian artist, all courtesy of Miss Woodita, who comped our tickets! Bless her!
Later we went to the lounge at the National Film Theater for drinks. There were portraits of all sorts of famous actors on display, and it made me want to be a glamorous theater star :P Later, we met some friends and did Saturday night proud. Our crowd grew and I got to share a few laughs with a beautiful Venezuelana, a lovely and hilarious couple, a rock star vinyl boy, and oh so many others! I think our little corner was lively and laughs too loud and colorful and happy and planning dinner parties for the next day and the whole time snapping photos and what a joy!
I stayed up late listening to records, but still managed to get up some what early. Sunday, my last day :( was perfect! I watched Elf, which I had always wanted to see, with my friend Graham and then we went to the London Aquarium. For whatever reason I picked up this pamphlet on the train from the airport a few days earlier and it had a 2 for 1 coupon for the Aquarium- score one for me for being prepared; that never happens!
We looked at pink and orange fish and a manta ray jumped out of the water to speak to us and the piranhas didn’t even scare me and there was a fish that looked like a silk dress and turtles and fish so big they looked like they could swallow a dog and I WAS scared of the sharks and it was all so beautiful. After hours of staring we sort of ambled through the arcade next door, seeing the flashing lights chase like tropical fish. Dazed, we made our way out, I with my souvenir squishy squid and shoelace charm, and Graham with some gummy candies.
We actually went through with our drunken dinner plans from the night before and Woo and Rach had us all over for a fab shepherd’s pie with sweet potato mash and broccoli and sparkling vinooooo and the whole works! Of course the night ended with a snuggly pile up and then sadly, goodbye for now hugs. Next morning- the departure :(
Friday, November 7, 2008
To Brussels and Beyond!
I would like to start by saying WOOO HOOOOO! I am so proud that Barack Obama is our president! I always had faith in him, but I was scared that the general population didn't- so glad I was wrong! This is definitely my top reason for wanting to come home; I want to celebrate our great decision with all y'all Americans back in the US! I was in Brussels on election night and everyone was so in to it. One bar we went to was having an "American Party" for the election and gave us free cheeseburgers when they heard w were from the US- too cute!
Anyway, I realized I forgot to tell a really important story the other day. When we were coming home from Delft, all stuffed with Mexican food and margaritas, something HORRIBLE happened. I get on the train with the fam, and as I'm going through the little door to the second level, this old lady starts to come out. I back up and smoosh against the wall so she can come through and after she does the door swings back and WHAM!!! Totally hits me in the head!! I felt like I was back in Milan!! I swear I have a target tattooed on my forehead!
It hurt so bad I instantly got tears in my eyes, and I yelled out "JESUS!!!" and everyone was staring and the old lady felt so bad but didn't speak English and had to run off of the train anyway and I just took a minute to calm myself down and MAN, why have I gotten bitch slapped in the head 3 times in as many weeks? Seriously...?
But yeah, I am over it. I just thought it was funny that I got hit AGAIN! In other news I made my way to Belgium a couple days ago to visit Alex, a friend from college. I LOVED IT! I feel so stupid for not putting Belgium at the top of my list of places to see! It's obvious that I would love it. I mean, they make the world's best beer, chocolate, crisp warm waffles, mussels, and they invented french fries! YUM!
I went to Leuven, where Alex is living, and he showed me around a bit. We wanted to go to this fairy tale bridge in the woods that is through a pretty little gate. As we were walking back, and we were almost to the bridge, we hear "clink clink clink!!" and we realize- we were being locked in! AHHH! We ran and yelled and, no joke, we barely made it out! So funny...
The next day I ventured out alone and enjoyed Brussels. As I was in Belgium, I decided that another brewery tour was in order! The coolest one I found was Cantillon Brewery, where they make lambic using the traditional method. I.E. they do not add yeast to the beer, they simply rely on the natural yeast in the Belgian ari to spontaneously ferment it. This is not cost effective, reliable, or easy, but it is SO cool! They are the only brewery still using this traditional system in Belgium and I had to see it! Make sure you check out the pics from there- all of their equipment is 100+ years old! I tried their geuze, which is a blend of 1, 2, and 3 year old lambics. I also tried their kriek lambic, which is made with fresh cherries. Both were tart and flavorful and SO different than the fake-o lambics I've tried. I was shocked and I even felt stupid for THINKING I knew lambic!
After the tour I wandered. I giggled as I did it. For whatever reason, I was VERY excited by Brussels! I bought hand made chocolate from a charming old lady in her shop and ate it as I walked. I stopped for a paper cone of real Belgian frites and a fab beer. I found the Grand Plaza with its shiny gold facades and strings of Christmas lights.
Later, Alex and I went to the Delirium Cafe and drank amazing beer. The place has over 2000 to choose from! After the "American Party" I mentioned earlier we went to Leuven and partied with the locals. We made new friends and danced and went home EXHAUSTED! It was crazy- I pretty much drank beer ALL day, but when in Rome... Or Belgium...
I got up the next morning and made sure Obama really did win, and when I saw that he did I was able to get out of bed! A NEW DAY!!! I celebrated with a Belgian waffle on my way to the train. SO dee-lish! On the way back to Leiden (where my sister lives) I stopped in Antwerp, Belgium. The day was gray, but the city was beautiful. It seemed ritzy. I grabbed an over-priced, gross sandwich and headed back to Holland to celebrate the victory with the fam before heading on to London. FABULOUS! Now I'm on a train to city center! I'll tell you all about it later!
-H*
Pics from Brussels: http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2148922&l=84508&id=22001348
Pics from Leuven: http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2148931&l=4717f&id=22001348
Anyway, I realized I forgot to tell a really important story the other day. When we were coming home from Delft, all stuffed with Mexican food and margaritas, something HORRIBLE happened. I get on the train with the fam, and as I'm going through the little door to the second level, this old lady starts to come out. I back up and smoosh against the wall so she can come through and after she does the door swings back and WHAM!!! Totally hits me in the head!! I felt like I was back in Milan!! I swear I have a target tattooed on my forehead!
It hurt so bad I instantly got tears in my eyes, and I yelled out "JESUS!!!" and everyone was staring and the old lady felt so bad but didn't speak English and had to run off of the train anyway and I just took a minute to calm myself down and MAN, why have I gotten bitch slapped in the head 3 times in as many weeks? Seriously...?
But yeah, I am over it. I just thought it was funny that I got hit AGAIN! In other news I made my way to Belgium a couple days ago to visit Alex, a friend from college. I LOVED IT! I feel so stupid for not putting Belgium at the top of my list of places to see! It's obvious that I would love it. I mean, they make the world's best beer, chocolate, crisp warm waffles, mussels, and they invented french fries! YUM!
I went to Leuven, where Alex is living, and he showed me around a bit. We wanted to go to this fairy tale bridge in the woods that is through a pretty little gate. As we were walking back, and we were almost to the bridge, we hear "clink clink clink!!" and we realize- we were being locked in! AHHH! We ran and yelled and, no joke, we barely made it out! So funny...
The next day I ventured out alone and enjoyed Brussels. As I was in Belgium, I decided that another brewery tour was in order! The coolest one I found was Cantillon Brewery, where they make lambic using the traditional method. I.E. they do not add yeast to the beer, they simply rely on the natural yeast in the Belgian ari to spontaneously ferment it. This is not cost effective, reliable, or easy, but it is SO cool! They are the only brewery still using this traditional system in Belgium and I had to see it! Make sure you check out the pics from there- all of their equipment is 100+ years old! I tried their geuze, which is a blend of 1, 2, and 3 year old lambics. I also tried their kriek lambic, which is made with fresh cherries. Both were tart and flavorful and SO different than the fake-o lambics I've tried. I was shocked and I even felt stupid for THINKING I knew lambic!
After the tour I wandered. I giggled as I did it. For whatever reason, I was VERY excited by Brussels! I bought hand made chocolate from a charming old lady in her shop and ate it as I walked. I stopped for a paper cone of real Belgian frites and a fab beer. I found the Grand Plaza with its shiny gold facades and strings of Christmas lights.
Later, Alex and I went to the Delirium Cafe and drank amazing beer. The place has over 2000 to choose from! After the "American Party" I mentioned earlier we went to Leuven and partied with the locals. We made new friends and danced and went home EXHAUSTED! It was crazy- I pretty much drank beer ALL day, but when in Rome... Or Belgium...
I got up the next morning and made sure Obama really did win, and when I saw that he did I was able to get out of bed! A NEW DAY!!! I celebrated with a Belgian waffle on my way to the train. SO dee-lish! On the way back to Leiden (where my sister lives) I stopped in Antwerp, Belgium. The day was gray, but the city was beautiful. It seemed ritzy. I grabbed an over-priced, gross sandwich and headed back to Holland to celebrate the victory with the fam before heading on to London. FABULOUS! Now I'm on a train to city center! I'll tell you all about it later!
-H*
Pics from Brussels: http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2148922&l=84508&id=22001348
Pics from Leuven: http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2148931&l=4717f&id=22001348
Monday, November 3, 2008
All around Amsterdam
My sister Jessica and my niece Juliette came for a visit. They arrived on Halloween and it was AMAZING! I bought Little Miss J a Flamenco dress in Barcelona and she looked fabulous. Plus I think she kind of got that it was a fancy dress and more than just a bit theatrical and she ROCKED IT! We had a very chill holiday and relaxed with some snacks and movies. By the way- The Exorcist is BARELY a horror movie- I thought it was straight up GOOD cinema.
Anyway, the following days were all about exploring the Netherlands. We started rather local and checked out Den Haag. Even though Amsterdam is the capitol, Den Haag is the official seat of government and of the UN Peace Palace, so there were stately, very official-looking buildings all over the place. I ate some raw herring, a Dutch delicacy, in the street and wandered around smelling like fish and onion. Bad. Yeah.
No worries though, my sisters aren’t ashamed of me and we continued to sightsee.
By afternoon we make our way to Delft, another Dutch town known for its blue and white china- Delftware. SO beautiful. If each hand-painted piece weren’t like 70 euro I might have bought something. But then I remember I don’t have any real counter space or even a house, at all! So I go wanting... Dinner at this surprisingly authentic Mexican place was deeLISH and we downed some Margaritas to accompany it. We headed back to Leiden exhausted and tipsy- the only way to be after a long day out. :)
The fam and I seem to be thoroughly enjoying each other’s company and I remember how it is to see things with people you love. Don’t get me wrong, I do most of my traveling alone, but it is nice to make memories with people you care about. That way, you have a sort of back up if you forget! Plus you can all converse and share opinions and all. AW!
The next day we headed into Amsterdam. We decided to see the Anne Frank House, and if we were up to it, the Heineken Experience, which opened that day. I thought that the Anne Frank museum was so well done. They give you a lot of information and tell you about everyone involved with keeping the family hidden and you get to walk around where they atually stayed and wow. I noticed how well-preserved the place was. Anne posted magazine clippings that still hang brightly on the walls, little pencil markings to show the heights of the children were bold, and the diary itself looked like it had just been written. Then you realize that it was only 64 years ago... Anne would only be 79 if she were still alive.
I don’t want to write too much about it, but it was a very heavy experience. Obviously.
We ate our little picnic BLTs and trammed it to the Heineken Experience. Let me just say, the surest way out of a sad place is through a happy lager brewery. When we walked in, the door staff lit up and yelled, “WELCOME! YAAAAYYYYY!!” No joke. It was opening day and they were just as excited as we were. Plus I treated the gals and after the opening day discount I was like, “YAAAYYYY!” too, so everyone was happy.
We got to see snazzy videos about the history of Heineken, the big copper kettles they use to brew the stuff, the stables where the Heineken horses reside, a 3-D bubbly shaky ride where “They brew YOU,” a mini bottling plant, the tasting room, a PARTY lounge with fab music and cool videos, green lounge chairs with personal TVs that play classic ads on loop, and you end up at a Heineken bar and the gift shop. What a rad time. My little niece, the latest addition to a long line of flirtsy girls, wooed four young Italian guys and they were all in LOVE with her! Too cute! We watched her go and shared a few laughs while drinking, what else, HEINEKENS! EXTRA COLD!
I rushed back to Central Station after the tour to catch my train to Brussels, Belgium. I’m excited to see somewhere new! I’ll tell you all about it soon!
-H*
Anyway, the following days were all about exploring the Netherlands. We started rather local and checked out Den Haag. Even though Amsterdam is the capitol, Den Haag is the official seat of government and of the UN Peace Palace, so there were stately, very official-looking buildings all over the place. I ate some raw herring, a Dutch delicacy, in the street and wandered around smelling like fish and onion. Bad. Yeah.
No worries though, my sisters aren’t ashamed of me and we continued to sightsee.
By afternoon we make our way to Delft, another Dutch town known for its blue and white china- Delftware. SO beautiful. If each hand-painted piece weren’t like 70 euro I might have bought something. But then I remember I don’t have any real counter space or even a house, at all! So I go wanting... Dinner at this surprisingly authentic Mexican place was deeLISH and we downed some Margaritas to accompany it. We headed back to Leiden exhausted and tipsy- the only way to be after a long day out. :)
The fam and I seem to be thoroughly enjoying each other’s company and I remember how it is to see things with people you love. Don’t get me wrong, I do most of my traveling alone, but it is nice to make memories with people you care about. That way, you have a sort of back up if you forget! Plus you can all converse and share opinions and all. AW!
The next day we headed into Amsterdam. We decided to see the Anne Frank House, and if we were up to it, the Heineken Experience, which opened that day. I thought that the Anne Frank museum was so well done. They give you a lot of information and tell you about everyone involved with keeping the family hidden and you get to walk around where they atually stayed and wow. I noticed how well-preserved the place was. Anne posted magazine clippings that still hang brightly on the walls, little pencil markings to show the heights of the children were bold, and the diary itself looked like it had just been written. Then you realize that it was only 64 years ago... Anne would only be 79 if she were still alive.
I don’t want to write too much about it, but it was a very heavy experience. Obviously.
We ate our little picnic BLTs and trammed it to the Heineken Experience. Let me just say, the surest way out of a sad place is through a happy lager brewery. When we walked in, the door staff lit up and yelled, “WELCOME! YAAAAYYYYY!!” No joke. It was opening day and they were just as excited as we were. Plus I treated the gals and after the opening day discount I was like, “YAAAYYYY!” too, so everyone was happy.
We got to see snazzy videos about the history of Heineken, the big copper kettles they use to brew the stuff, the stables where the Heineken horses reside, a 3-D bubbly shaky ride where “They brew YOU,” a mini bottling plant, the tasting room, a PARTY lounge with fab music and cool videos, green lounge chairs with personal TVs that play classic ads on loop, and you end up at a Heineken bar and the gift shop. What a rad time. My little niece, the latest addition to a long line of flirtsy girls, wooed four young Italian guys and they were all in LOVE with her! Too cute! We watched her go and shared a few laughs while drinking, what else, HEINEKENS! EXTRA COLD!
I rushed back to Central Station after the tour to catch my train to Brussels, Belgium. I’m excited to see somewhere new! I’ll tell you all about it soon!
-H*
Friday, October 31, 2008
AmsterDAAAAAAAM!
So my first day in Amsterdam was pretty horrendous. Next day was also less than fab, but for very different reasons. We left Leiden, the town where my sister lives, to go into Amsterdam Centraal, and the weather was BAD! Rainy this and drafty that and my little boots were soggy :( We still made an effort and grabbed some lunch. My dad took a boat tour and my sister and I went make-up shopping. Actually we just looked in the rain for a Sephora- to no avail! However, the fact that we found a tiny Belgian bar with Duvel for 3 Euro QUICKLY eased our pain!
We went to an outdoor market and I luggage shopped. FYI: My adorable polka dot suitcase is in TATTERS! It has a janky, non-functioning wheel, the pull-out handle is also non-functioning, so I pull it by its little pigtail of a strap, which really hurts us both, AND the zippers are giving out at the seams and missing their metal pull tabs. YIKES! I didn’t buy anything though, because I can’t decide what size to get, ESPECIALLY if I end up changing plans to come home, but that’s another story :P
We went out for a Traditional Dutch meal that night and I had veal with mashed potato and sauteed apples. Everybody else had equally delicious meals, and the place was a real success from our draft LaChouffes to our two Grand Dessert platters. Yum Yum Yum all the way home!
The next day was my dad’s grand send off ie: We had hot chocolates on the train platform before he headed to the airport... So sad to say goodbye :( We snapped a really cute shot that morning though :)
Later, Sal and I headed into the city for “The Heineken Experienece.” For whatever reason I was SUPER excited for this, and we get right up to the door and it says “Opening November 3rd.” Ok, I was here last year and it was closed and there is no way that it should’ve taken this long! PLUS we got directions from the tram driver and there was an advertisement on our map and NOWHERE did it say “Opening November ’08” or anything like that. GRR!
Without any real plans we started walking around the city. And that was it. Now I’ll tell you about Coffee Shops in Amsterdam. ;) So they came about because Amsterdam had a REAL junkie issue with people all strung out and needles and everything in the street with kids & blah blah blah. They decided that the best way to curb the hard drug problem would be to regulate softer drugs. SO, they made coffee shops. There you can buy weed, hash and space cakes that you consume on the premises- no cigarettes allowed! You can’t smoke in the streets or sell and buy on the streets, you actually can’t even carry, legally.
But so these places are little drug dens and everybody just chills and waitresses bring teas and juices and whatever. There is hardly ever any food, other than space cakes, and waitresses don’t sell drugs- you go to the drug dealer at the bar who answers any questions you might have. Then you do your thing and go on your way. It was funny because there would be like an older guy by himself just blazing away, or like five young guys with two joints each, or a group of friends, or a couple lounging on the beaded pillows, or some girlfriends giggling together, and the atmosphere is so cute and relaxed and you never worry that some lame bar brawl will break out or that somebody will pee on the floor in front of you and your friends like in Budapest...
When they made coffee shops they also made smart shops, which sell mushrooms and other light hallucinogens. Same logic applies, if we give them some soft drugs to play with, maybe they won’t care to try anything harder AND if they do, the penalties will be much harsher. It has actually worked and the big majority of the junkie population is older people who started using before the regulation of soft drugs happened. SUCCESS!
Same thing goes for prostitution- they’re like, “if we regulate it, the prostitutes will be healthier and safer and it won’t happen in the streets and there won’t be “sex for drugs” trades or girls that are too young and if a girl IS harassed or raped the penalties are much worse since a desperate guy SHOULD just go to the red light district... So another success for the city. The strange thing, though, is that none of these places are legal. It’s just that if they are discreet and go by the rules, they’ll never get in trouble. Dutch law is very weird like that, very look the other way- cool, right?
I’ll rave more later, but that’s what’s up so far....
-H*
Pics from Amsterdam: http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2147355&l=e83e9&id=22001348
We went to an outdoor market and I luggage shopped. FYI: My adorable polka dot suitcase is in TATTERS! It has a janky, non-functioning wheel, the pull-out handle is also non-functioning, so I pull it by its little pigtail of a strap, which really hurts us both, AND the zippers are giving out at the seams and missing their metal pull tabs. YIKES! I didn’t buy anything though, because I can’t decide what size to get, ESPECIALLY if I end up changing plans to come home, but that’s another story :P
We went out for a Traditional Dutch meal that night and I had veal with mashed potato and sauteed apples. Everybody else had equally delicious meals, and the place was a real success from our draft LaChouffes to our two Grand Dessert platters. Yum Yum Yum all the way home!
The next day was my dad’s grand send off ie: We had hot chocolates on the train platform before he headed to the airport... So sad to say goodbye :( We snapped a really cute shot that morning though :)
Later, Sal and I headed into the city for “The Heineken Experienece.” For whatever reason I was SUPER excited for this, and we get right up to the door and it says “Opening November 3rd.” Ok, I was here last year and it was closed and there is no way that it should’ve taken this long! PLUS we got directions from the tram driver and there was an advertisement on our map and NOWHERE did it say “Opening November ’08” or anything like that. GRR!
Without any real plans we started walking around the city. And that was it. Now I’ll tell you about Coffee Shops in Amsterdam. ;) So they came about because Amsterdam had a REAL junkie issue with people all strung out and needles and everything in the street with kids & blah blah blah. They decided that the best way to curb the hard drug problem would be to regulate softer drugs. SO, they made coffee shops. There you can buy weed, hash and space cakes that you consume on the premises- no cigarettes allowed! You can’t smoke in the streets or sell and buy on the streets, you actually can’t even carry, legally.
But so these places are little drug dens and everybody just chills and waitresses bring teas and juices and whatever. There is hardly ever any food, other than space cakes, and waitresses don’t sell drugs- you go to the drug dealer at the bar who answers any questions you might have. Then you do your thing and go on your way. It was funny because there would be like an older guy by himself just blazing away, or like five young guys with two joints each, or a group of friends, or a couple lounging on the beaded pillows, or some girlfriends giggling together, and the atmosphere is so cute and relaxed and you never worry that some lame bar brawl will break out or that somebody will pee on the floor in front of you and your friends like in Budapest...
When they made coffee shops they also made smart shops, which sell mushrooms and other light hallucinogens. Same logic applies, if we give them some soft drugs to play with, maybe they won’t care to try anything harder AND if they do, the penalties will be much harsher. It has actually worked and the big majority of the junkie population is older people who started using before the regulation of soft drugs happened. SUCCESS!
Same thing goes for prostitution- they’re like, “if we regulate it, the prostitutes will be healthier and safer and it won’t happen in the streets and there won’t be “sex for drugs” trades or girls that are too young and if a girl IS harassed or raped the penalties are much worse since a desperate guy SHOULD just go to the red light district... So another success for the city. The strange thing, though, is that none of these places are legal. It’s just that if they are discreet and go by the rules, they’ll never get in trouble. Dutch law is very weird like that, very look the other way- cool, right?
I’ll rave more later, but that’s what’s up so far....
-H*
Pics from Amsterdam: http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2147355&l=e83e9&id=22001348
Tuesday, October 28, 2008
Arrival in Amsterdam!
So I'm here now in Amsterdam- Day 2. I want to tell you about some crazy psychedelic adventure or a random hobo who shared with me the meaning of life.... But instead I'll tell you what really happened.
Some of you may know that I have always had a sort of love/hate relationship with Paris. No, actually, a hate/hate relationship. Paris and I just don't get along. I feel weird there and I swear the boys don't check me out and I just can't get it right. However, my dad was there, and of course I wanted to visit with him, so I went. We had a magical/gluttonous couple days, and I felt like the Parisian curse had finally been broken; I felt like she really started to warm up to me. NO.
When I got to Amsterdam, I basically just went to sleep, and when I woke up, I was A MESS! I couldn't eat, my stomach was all churny, my head was pounding, I couldn't even drink water, I was bed-ridden, a chaplain read my last rites, I went on a Saltine-Only Diet, I prepared my will, I sent in my absentee ballot, I was in & out of the bathroom for various reasons, I contemplated the meaning of life as I fought off the blackness engulfing me, I blinded myself from the white light- PARIS FOOD POISONED ME!!!!
And you know what? I don't even know why I'm surprised. OF COURSE that French Bitch had the last laugh.....
-H*
Some of you may know that I have always had a sort of love/hate relationship with Paris. No, actually, a hate/hate relationship. Paris and I just don't get along. I feel weird there and I swear the boys don't check me out and I just can't get it right. However, my dad was there, and of course I wanted to visit with him, so I went. We had a magical/gluttonous couple days, and I felt like the Parisian curse had finally been broken; I felt like she really started to warm up to me. NO.
When I got to Amsterdam, I basically just went to sleep, and when I woke up, I was A MESS! I couldn't eat, my stomach was all churny, my head was pounding, I couldn't even drink water, I was bed-ridden, a chaplain read my last rites, I went on a Saltine-Only Diet, I prepared my will, I sent in my absentee ballot, I was in & out of the bathroom for various reasons, I contemplated the meaning of life as I fought off the blackness engulfing me, I blinded myself from the white light- PARIS FOOD POISONED ME!!!!
And you know what? I don't even know why I'm surprised. OF COURSE that French Bitch had the last laugh.....
-H*
Sunday, October 26, 2008
To Paris...
My last night in Barcelona was low key. I went out around midnight, since that’s the way the Spaniards do it, and I ended up just walking around, watching the scene since I didn’t feel like drinking. I headed home rather early and watched “My Left Foot”- AMAZING and went to bed; I had to leave the next morning for Paris.
At the airport I was thrilled to hear that EasyJet wasn’t limiting luggage weight- or at least wasn’t checking it, so I LOADED UP my checked bag and made my way to the gate. I was tempted to have one last tortilla sandwich, but held out for the plane. Why again? Why did I think it would be better to pay 5 euro for some peanuts and olives than eat a cheapo deelish sandwich??? Yeah, you tell me. At least the olives were marinated...
Once I landed I went to buy a bus ticket to city center and I handed the guy 10 cents worth of 1 and 2 cent pieces. He told me, “Uh, I prefer a 10 cent” and I’m like, “Yeah, I don’t want these either...” But then I remembered, it’s France and you have to just surrender to their attitude because they have really perfected it. “Of course, here you go.” I say, and I lost, and I just went out to the bus. It smelled really bad on there...
I caught a cab to the hotel and of course the cabbie (who drove a Mercedes and wore a pinstripe suit and some FAB cologne) was upset that I only had a 50. He asked me to go into the hotel or a restaurant to try and change it- OH Paris!
My dad arrived within 5 of me being there and we set out to see a bit of the city before dinner. We grabbed a croissant and a chocolate chip brioche, you know, to spoil dinner, and sat in a park. It was the whole idyllic French scene with dads and children playing football and people with baguettes walking about and lovers kissing and musicians toting instruments to their nightly gigs and the sun setting as beautiful streetlights flash on and the fountain bubbling in the center....
Dinner is a few blocks away and the place was slammed from the moment they started serving dinner at 8 o’clock. We ordered a spinach salad with goat cheese to start and I had duck, my dad had steak. We strolled around and ate some more- I had a gaufre, which is like a waffle, with Nutella and banana, my dad had a chocolate crepe with Grand Marnier. I have not eaten like this for my whole trip, but GOD- Paris is the place to indulge!!
I went to sleep so full I had to lie on my side and only woke up in time to eat. AGAIN! We had another fab meal- salad with Camembert (a whole wheel of it!), steak tartare for me and onion soup for my dad. Jesus, I can’t believe I ate all that! Then we went on a cruise of the river, which conveniently passes by most of the landmarks of Paris. I snapped some photos, but the real highlight of the cruise was this jackass up front.
He’s somebody’s dad or something, so I don’t want to be too harsh, but this guy is FRONT AND CENTER, standing up THE WHOLE TIME! Every time I wanted some wide shot of the cityscape, it turns out to be a picture of a guy on a boat, and you lose the whole image! I kept thinking, “If this was New York, this would NOT fly!” I know some rough Italian guy with gelled hair and a gold chain would be all, “HEY! Down in front! My kid can’t see!” Or something like that. If only I had the nerve! Instead I BLOG about it. Wow...
After the cruise, what did we do? EAT! Ice cream from this charming little shop with HUGE portions, especially for France, which is JUST what I needed. Then we headed home and straight to the Thalys train. Ok, this is where it gets DISGUSTING! Since we booked pretty late, only first class tickets were available, so it was ALL YOU CAN EAT/DRINK! And yeah, even after all the indulgence from the night before I partaked. Partook. Partaketh- I did it all! YUM YUM YUM! VIVE LA FRANCE!!!!
-H*
Pics from Paris: http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2146589&l=1cc9d&id=22001348
At the airport I was thrilled to hear that EasyJet wasn’t limiting luggage weight- or at least wasn’t checking it, so I LOADED UP my checked bag and made my way to the gate. I was tempted to have one last tortilla sandwich, but held out for the plane. Why again? Why did I think it would be better to pay 5 euro for some peanuts and olives than eat a cheapo deelish sandwich??? Yeah, you tell me. At least the olives were marinated...
Once I landed I went to buy a bus ticket to city center and I handed the guy 10 cents worth of 1 and 2 cent pieces. He told me, “Uh, I prefer a 10 cent” and I’m like, “Yeah, I don’t want these either...” But then I remembered, it’s France and you have to just surrender to their attitude because they have really perfected it. “Of course, here you go.” I say, and I lost, and I just went out to the bus. It smelled really bad on there...
I caught a cab to the hotel and of course the cabbie (who drove a Mercedes and wore a pinstripe suit and some FAB cologne) was upset that I only had a 50. He asked me to go into the hotel or a restaurant to try and change it- OH Paris!
My dad arrived within 5 of me being there and we set out to see a bit of the city before dinner. We grabbed a croissant and a chocolate chip brioche, you know, to spoil dinner, and sat in a park. It was the whole idyllic French scene with dads and children playing football and people with baguettes walking about and lovers kissing and musicians toting instruments to their nightly gigs and the sun setting as beautiful streetlights flash on and the fountain bubbling in the center....
Dinner is a few blocks away and the place was slammed from the moment they started serving dinner at 8 o’clock. We ordered a spinach salad with goat cheese to start and I had duck, my dad had steak. We strolled around and ate some more- I had a gaufre, which is like a waffle, with Nutella and banana, my dad had a chocolate crepe with Grand Marnier. I have not eaten like this for my whole trip, but GOD- Paris is the place to indulge!!
I went to sleep so full I had to lie on my side and only woke up in time to eat. AGAIN! We had another fab meal- salad with Camembert (a whole wheel of it!), steak tartare for me and onion soup for my dad. Jesus, I can’t believe I ate all that! Then we went on a cruise of the river, which conveniently passes by most of the landmarks of Paris. I snapped some photos, but the real highlight of the cruise was this jackass up front.
He’s somebody’s dad or something, so I don’t want to be too harsh, but this guy is FRONT AND CENTER, standing up THE WHOLE TIME! Every time I wanted some wide shot of the cityscape, it turns out to be a picture of a guy on a boat, and you lose the whole image! I kept thinking, “If this was New York, this would NOT fly!” I know some rough Italian guy with gelled hair and a gold chain would be all, “HEY! Down in front! My kid can’t see!” Or something like that. If only I had the nerve! Instead I BLOG about it. Wow...
After the cruise, what did we do? EAT! Ice cream from this charming little shop with HUGE portions, especially for France, which is JUST what I needed. Then we headed home and straight to the Thalys train. Ok, this is where it gets DISGUSTING! Since we booked pretty late, only first class tickets were available, so it was ALL YOU CAN EAT/DRINK! And yeah, even after all the indulgence from the night before I partaked. Partook. Partaketh- I did it all! YUM YUM YUM! VIVE LA FRANCE!!!!
-H*
Pics from Paris: http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2146589&l=1cc9d&id=22001348
Friday, October 24, 2008
Sitges and Back
Our second day in Sitges was chilly, so we scrapped our plans for a beach day, and decided to head into town instead. You can easily stroll across the entire city center, and we sort of weaved back and forth all day, stopping every now and then, for coffee and conversation. We noticed that Barcelona was playing a football match that night and went out to a local spot to see the game.
I love watching football in Europe. Everyone is so happy and it’s all copas and chanting and laughing and conversations interrupted when it gets exciting and savory snacks and memories of past matches and they blast “gol” music when our team scores and there are close ups of the hot, young players for the ladies and service is slow because everyone is watching...
The next morning we got up early to enjoy our free breakfast (delicious!) before heading back to Barcelona. I will point out that we had this insta-matic coffee machine that made FAB drinks at the push of a button! It was right by the breakfast bar and we made AMPLE use of it at all hours. However, one jackass working the desk, out of about four others, totally stopped us as we tried to have a hot chocolate before bed- “It’s closed now, it’s disconnected.” And I’m like “No, we make it every night, it works...” And he really wouldn’t let us! What a jerk, right???
Anyway, back in Barcelona we settle into the same room we had a few days before and then head out to Las Ramblas- the busy main drag of the city. It was just as lively as I remembered, with street performers and roasted chestnuts and sweet potatoes and alleyways sprouting off the sides with charming little shops and restaurants and they also randomly have stands along the center selling small pets- something that would NEVER fly in the US...
We check out La Boqueria, a HUGE fresh market, before having lunch at a lovely cafe. We have three courses- salad, soup and fideua (paella with noodles instead of rice) to start, chicken and fish next, and chocolate cake and ice cream for dessert. A tiny little beer is included, and I’m really loving life.
The place is special because it’s in what used to be a sort of University exhibition space/research facility for the sciences. For this reason it’s called, in English, The Taxidermy Cafe. How unappetizing, right? They give you the meat then bring out the animal it came from, stuffed, and staring you in the face. No, I made that up, but that’s what I envisioned when I heard the name. haha
We went on a LONG walk and saw parts of the city I had never seen and went down to the water and by the National Museum where these “magic fountains” were supposed to dance for us, but no such luck. We went back to our neighborhood, exhausted, for Sarah and Timothy’s last bocadillo de tortilla espanola, at the same place we ate on our first night. The waiter totally remembered us and gave us free grappa after the meal. DEEEEELISH!
This morning they headed out EARLY and I switched to a single room at the hostel and I’m alone again. Rather than look at my empty room, I’m taking a day trip to Figueres- hometown of Salvador Dali and the museum he created. Should be great. I’ll let you know later....
-H*
PS- Museum was AMAZING! It always blows my mind when you see the early works of artists who are known for their more “out there” stuff- they are always well-trained technical geniuses FIRST, then they go crazy haha Dali made most everything inside and even designed the egg-capped building- you must check out the pics!!
Pics from Barcelona: http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2146251&l=889c2&id=22001348
Pics from Figueres/Museum: http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2146410&l=21a87&id=22001348
I love watching football in Europe. Everyone is so happy and it’s all copas and chanting and laughing and conversations interrupted when it gets exciting and savory snacks and memories of past matches and they blast “gol” music when our team scores and there are close ups of the hot, young players for the ladies and service is slow because everyone is watching...
The next morning we got up early to enjoy our free breakfast (delicious!) before heading back to Barcelona. I will point out that we had this insta-matic coffee machine that made FAB drinks at the push of a button! It was right by the breakfast bar and we made AMPLE use of it at all hours. However, one jackass working the desk, out of about four others, totally stopped us as we tried to have a hot chocolate before bed- “It’s closed now, it’s disconnected.” And I’m like “No, we make it every night, it works...” And he really wouldn’t let us! What a jerk, right???
Anyway, back in Barcelona we settle into the same room we had a few days before and then head out to Las Ramblas- the busy main drag of the city. It was just as lively as I remembered, with street performers and roasted chestnuts and sweet potatoes and alleyways sprouting off the sides with charming little shops and restaurants and they also randomly have stands along the center selling small pets- something that would NEVER fly in the US...
We check out La Boqueria, a HUGE fresh market, before having lunch at a lovely cafe. We have three courses- salad, soup and fideua (paella with noodles instead of rice) to start, chicken and fish next, and chocolate cake and ice cream for dessert. A tiny little beer is included, and I’m really loving life.
The place is special because it’s in what used to be a sort of University exhibition space/research facility for the sciences. For this reason it’s called, in English, The Taxidermy Cafe. How unappetizing, right? They give you the meat then bring out the animal it came from, stuffed, and staring you in the face. No, I made that up, but that’s what I envisioned when I heard the name. haha
We went on a LONG walk and saw parts of the city I had never seen and went down to the water and by the National Museum where these “magic fountains” were supposed to dance for us, but no such luck. We went back to our neighborhood, exhausted, for Sarah and Timothy’s last bocadillo de tortilla espanola, at the same place we ate on our first night. The waiter totally remembered us and gave us free grappa after the meal. DEEEEELISH!
This morning they headed out EARLY and I switched to a single room at the hostel and I’m alone again. Rather than look at my empty room, I’m taking a day trip to Figueres- hometown of Salvador Dali and the museum he created. Should be great. I’ll let you know later....
-H*
PS- Museum was AMAZING! It always blows my mind when you see the early works of artists who are known for their more “out there” stuff- they are always well-trained technical geniuses FIRST, then they go crazy haha Dali made most everything inside and even designed the egg-capped building- you must check out the pics!!
Pics from Barcelona: http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2146251&l=889c2&id=22001348
Pics from Figueres/Museum: http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2146410&l=21a87&id=22001348
Wednesday, October 22, 2008
En Espana....
My first night in Spain was arrivals, open windows, the Spanish lisp, anticipation, the Sagrada Familia cathedral looming in the dark, cerveza, and so glad to be out of Milan and with family, laughing, tortilla sandwiches, the smell of Spanish tobacco, sisters whispering until 6am....
Sarah and Timothy arrived a couple hours after me and we settled in and they paid me for the hostel and we went to step out for a bite. The sweet girl at the desk approached me as we got to the door. In Spanish, she says, “So, then, you’ll pay me tomorrow?” I was so confused..? I say, “What do you mean? They already paid..?” And I can’t believe it and I swear I remember... And, oh yeah! There was a GUY, not her at the desk... I say, “Well, who was that guy then? Does he even work here?” And, I’m so stressed because I realized whoever that guy was just pocketed the money!
Sarah and Timothy don’t understand what’s going on, as the exchange is all en espanol, and I try to explain, when I realize- OH MY GOD. I took the money from Sarah and Timothy for the room, but never paid the desk! And I look like world’s BIGGEST asshole. EVER! I apologize and pay up, and sort of choke out a fake giggle, embarrassed. Then I put my foot in my mouth and hop, on one foot, to the cafe she recommended.
Breakfast was around 10am the next day, and we ate the same food I ate every morning when I studied here- mini muffins with jam, toast with chocolate spread and coffee. We headed to the Sagrada Familia soon after and wow, it is sooooo incredible! It has been under construction since 1882, and I think it always will be. As the new construction goes up, the old bits have to be rehabbed, and it’s been so many people’s life’s work, and I’m proud to have gotten to see it. And I feel like a real cultured bitch when it’s my second time. We stopped by the Parc Guell, a public park designed by the same architect as the Sagrada Familia- also breath taking.
In the afternoon we headed to Stiges, a beach town outside of Barcelona. We loaded up the bags and start walking to the station. We get to our stop and follow the signs to Cercanias, the suburban rail. And ok look, I do a lot of walking, but the underground transfer was more up and downs and turn the corner and dig a tunnel and throw the bags over the fence and sweating and a lady sees how exhausted we are and says, “I know it seems unbelievable, but this is really the way,” and we answer the gatekeeper’s riddle and we FIND IT, and I fight an old lady for a spot at the self-serve counter. Tickets are booked and its sandwiches and cervezas on board! FAB!
It’s about a 1/2 hour to Sitges and our hotel is adorable with a little balcony. We head to the beach and even though it’s about 5pm and the sun is getting low, I’m in the water splashing around like a FREAK! It’s amazing and we watch these Mediterranean men in Speedos do push ups on the pier and snap photos of each other and a kid run around naked and people lounge and it’s just so relaxing and the sun sets and we go to get ready for dinner.
The recommendation sends us past the touristy area, and we browse a menu there, when an old local offers us his table and declares that the restaurant has the best paella in the city. We sit and it’s true. Dinner was PERFECT with wine and jamon and shellfish by the sea...
We walked out on a stone wall and reached a little rocky peninsula. My peripheral vision could only see rocks and ocean, and I was at the end of the Earth and I felt small and secure and happy. We walked toward home and stopped every now and then to watch the Mediterranean. What is it about the water? That night we all slept easy... More from Sitges later!
-H*
Pics from Barcelona: http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2146251&l=889c2&id=22001348
Sarah and Timothy arrived a couple hours after me and we settled in and they paid me for the hostel and we went to step out for a bite. The sweet girl at the desk approached me as we got to the door. In Spanish, she says, “So, then, you’ll pay me tomorrow?” I was so confused..? I say, “What do you mean? They already paid..?” And I can’t believe it and I swear I remember... And, oh yeah! There was a GUY, not her at the desk... I say, “Well, who was that guy then? Does he even work here?” And, I’m so stressed because I realized whoever that guy was just pocketed the money!
Sarah and Timothy don’t understand what’s going on, as the exchange is all en espanol, and I try to explain, when I realize- OH MY GOD. I took the money from Sarah and Timothy for the room, but never paid the desk! And I look like world’s BIGGEST asshole. EVER! I apologize and pay up, and sort of choke out a fake giggle, embarrassed. Then I put my foot in my mouth and hop, on one foot, to the cafe she recommended.
Breakfast was around 10am the next day, and we ate the same food I ate every morning when I studied here- mini muffins with jam, toast with chocolate spread and coffee. We headed to the Sagrada Familia soon after and wow, it is sooooo incredible! It has been under construction since 1882, and I think it always will be. As the new construction goes up, the old bits have to be rehabbed, and it’s been so many people’s life’s work, and I’m proud to have gotten to see it. And I feel like a real cultured bitch when it’s my second time. We stopped by the Parc Guell, a public park designed by the same architect as the Sagrada Familia- also breath taking.
In the afternoon we headed to Stiges, a beach town outside of Barcelona. We loaded up the bags and start walking to the station. We get to our stop and follow the signs to Cercanias, the suburban rail. And ok look, I do a lot of walking, but the underground transfer was more up and downs and turn the corner and dig a tunnel and throw the bags over the fence and sweating and a lady sees how exhausted we are and says, “I know it seems unbelievable, but this is really the way,” and we answer the gatekeeper’s riddle and we FIND IT, and I fight an old lady for a spot at the self-serve counter. Tickets are booked and its sandwiches and cervezas on board! FAB!
It’s about a 1/2 hour to Sitges and our hotel is adorable with a little balcony. We head to the beach and even though it’s about 5pm and the sun is getting low, I’m in the water splashing around like a FREAK! It’s amazing and we watch these Mediterranean men in Speedos do push ups on the pier and snap photos of each other and a kid run around naked and people lounge and it’s just so relaxing and the sun sets and we go to get ready for dinner.
The recommendation sends us past the touristy area, and we browse a menu there, when an old local offers us his table and declares that the restaurant has the best paella in the city. We sit and it’s true. Dinner was PERFECT with wine and jamon and shellfish by the sea...
We walked out on a stone wall and reached a little rocky peninsula. My peripheral vision could only see rocks and ocean, and I was at the end of the Earth and I felt small and secure and happy. We walked toward home and stopped every now and then to watch the Mediterranean. What is it about the water? That night we all slept easy... More from Sitges later!
-H*
Pics from Barcelona: http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2146251&l=889c2&id=22001348
Monday, October 20, 2008
ESCAPE FROM MILAN!!!
Wow. Wow. Um. Just, WOW. That was the worst vacation I have ever had. MILAN SUCKED! Notice I didn’t say Milan sucks, because I’m sure it doesn’t; I really feel like it’s a great city, but WOW. It really sucked for me. I wasn’t super psyched for it, which rarely happens since I’m always excited about new places, but I guess my traveler’s intuition was onto something...
When I got to the airport, I stood on the train platform to city center for a minute or two when I realized, “I am the only one down here...” I knew it wasn’t right, so I rushed back up stairs, polka dot luggage in tow, and start rushing around. A helpful Italian guy, who just arrived from Barcelona, told me that after 11:00 pm, a bus makes the route instead of the train. Luckily I made the bus in time and was on my way to my hotel. Yes, a HOTEL! I paid a bit extra to have some privacy, since I’d been living dormitory style for the last few weeks...
The directions to the place were a bit dodgy, so I asked a friendly-looking Irish guy which way, and he says, “Oh! That’s where I’m going, this way!!” I watched a tram pass the other way and boarded the next one in my direction. It seemed like it was taking too long, and it was midnight, so I hopped off and went into a hotel. Turns out I was literally at a point diagonally across the entire city from where I needed to be. The desk guy grabbed me a taxi. FYI, it’s 15 Euro to drive across Milan’s city center (without traffic). I got to my hotel SO RELIEVED I COULD CRY!
The desk guy asks for my passport and says, get this, “I do not have a reservation of this name.” I made this pathetic little quivering desperate moan and then went into bitch mode. I pull up the confirmation Email and my bank statement to prove I’d been charged, and he says, “No, I don’t have reservation, and I don’t have room. When you make, reservation was already close-ed!” And HE’S heated with ME! I really, really just couldn’t believe it....
Then I think he began to see the gravity of the situation, because he called someone and told me he had a room- IN ANOTHER HOTEL! “Where?” And we go out, and he points, and I can see it and within 20, I’m asleep. Actually I set the alarm for the free breakfast, and THEN I’m asleep...
Breakfast was really just a lot of cookies and crackers and a couple pre-packaged croissants, so I decided to head back upstairs. I ask about check-out time and they told me there wasn’t one so I go back to sleep. Within a half hour they call and say, “Uh, hello. Clean. Must clean. You finish.” So I guess I was out.
I made my way to the hostel I reserved for the next night. Again, directions were thoroughly confusing, but I found #5 Galla Placida, and buzzed it, and nothing, and I can hear it ringing upstairs, and nothing. I kept buzzing, like an idiot, and then just sat down. Luckily, I had a wireless signal, so I listened to the Ting Tings and read the news, when a few guys walked up and one was horrified to see me sitting in the street- he was the owner.
He launched into this huge thing about how the hotel was new and the directions were supposed to be to the desk, which was at a different property.................. I finally get checked in and go to sleep. Until 6pm.
I only got up because I heard that the “apertivo” is really big in Milan. Think of it as the happy hour’s “big rich uncle.” You go to any bar or cafe, buy a drink, and then you have access to a free buffet. It reminded me of what people put out for their high school open houses or Christmas parties. Some are basic with cheese, olives, and potato chips, others are RIDICULOUS with all that plus pasta dishes and pizza and desserts....
Needless to say I had to try it, and after gussying up a bit I headed to a cafe that was described as “a place to see and be seen” in a trendy neighborhood. It was really cute, but I found it a bit difficult to mingle as everyone was A: part of a group and B: speaking Italian. I had a bit to eat and decided to move on. As I walked around the city center, I noticed how beautiful Milan was. Really lovely. Anyway, I couldn’t find a place, and I started to feel lonely for the first time on the WHOLE trip. And since I didn’t want to just wander the streets and have a pity party, I did the unthinkable- I went to the touristy area in hopes of finding people that spoke English!! I’m so ashamed!!
I found a sign for “The English Football Pub” and went inside- Nope, all Italians and there was no bar? I noticed that at most every place I peeked into, the bar is for ordering, not really to sit down and have a drink... I left defeated, and decided to head to my hostel. As I walked home from the metro, a HUGE loud brawl broke out in the street! Like 20 young Italians throwing Heinekens at each other... So that cheered me up a little bit, but I still just wanted to go home.
When I got there my roommates, who I had never met, were all asleep- and it was 10:30... I used my handy little flashlight to find my way to the bathroom and WHAMM! I bang the SHIT out of my head on a random cross-beam! And I can’t even yell or curse it, because the girls are asleep! I wanted to KILL someone, or at least break a Heineken on the beam, or SOMETHING. But I just go to the bathroom and head to bed when WHAMM!! Yeah, I hit my head AGAIN!! I already forgot about the beam....
I wake up on my last day and I remember to duck for the beam, but there’s no toilet paper and there is a bug in the bidet, and I can’t believe this! I won’t even get into details about the rest- I had 1 hour to sightsee until my bus to the airport left, only when I get there after rushing and I’m seriously DRENCHED with sweat, they direct me to a completely different station across town, and when I get there I’m STILL rushing, and at the wrong counter and I find it, and when I get to the bus I see that I overpaid, but I don’t have time to go back, or I’ll miss the bus, and it’s packed and I’m sharing a seat, and now, you’re caught up to now, and it has actually REALLY helped to write all this down.
Honestly though, can you believe what a horrible time I just had? And by the way, I am SO hungry! SHEEEE-IT! No worries though, I’m headed to Barcelona to meet up with Sarah and Timothy (my sister and brother-in-law) and as long as I’m not mugged or tortured it WILL be better than this...
-H*
Pics from Milan: http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2145892&l=46f61&id=22001348
When I got to the airport, I stood on the train platform to city center for a minute or two when I realized, “I am the only one down here...” I knew it wasn’t right, so I rushed back up stairs, polka dot luggage in tow, and start rushing around. A helpful Italian guy, who just arrived from Barcelona, told me that after 11:00 pm, a bus makes the route instead of the train. Luckily I made the bus in time and was on my way to my hotel. Yes, a HOTEL! I paid a bit extra to have some privacy, since I’d been living dormitory style for the last few weeks...
The directions to the place were a bit dodgy, so I asked a friendly-looking Irish guy which way, and he says, “Oh! That’s where I’m going, this way!!” I watched a tram pass the other way and boarded the next one in my direction. It seemed like it was taking too long, and it was midnight, so I hopped off and went into a hotel. Turns out I was literally at a point diagonally across the entire city from where I needed to be. The desk guy grabbed me a taxi. FYI, it’s 15 Euro to drive across Milan’s city center (without traffic). I got to my hotel SO RELIEVED I COULD CRY!
The desk guy asks for my passport and says, get this, “I do not have a reservation of this name.” I made this pathetic little quivering desperate moan and then went into bitch mode. I pull up the confirmation Email and my bank statement to prove I’d been charged, and he says, “No, I don’t have reservation, and I don’t have room. When you make, reservation was already close-ed!” And HE’S heated with ME! I really, really just couldn’t believe it....
Then I think he began to see the gravity of the situation, because he called someone and told me he had a room- IN ANOTHER HOTEL! “Where?” And we go out, and he points, and I can see it and within 20, I’m asleep. Actually I set the alarm for the free breakfast, and THEN I’m asleep...
Breakfast was really just a lot of cookies and crackers and a couple pre-packaged croissants, so I decided to head back upstairs. I ask about check-out time and they told me there wasn’t one so I go back to sleep. Within a half hour they call and say, “Uh, hello. Clean. Must clean. You finish.” So I guess I was out.
I made my way to the hostel I reserved for the next night. Again, directions were thoroughly confusing, but I found #5 Galla Placida, and buzzed it, and nothing, and I can hear it ringing upstairs, and nothing. I kept buzzing, like an idiot, and then just sat down. Luckily, I had a wireless signal, so I listened to the Ting Tings and read the news, when a few guys walked up and one was horrified to see me sitting in the street- he was the owner.
He launched into this huge thing about how the hotel was new and the directions were supposed to be to the desk, which was at a different property.................. I finally get checked in and go to sleep. Until 6pm.
I only got up because I heard that the “apertivo” is really big in Milan. Think of it as the happy hour’s “big rich uncle.” You go to any bar or cafe, buy a drink, and then you have access to a free buffet. It reminded me of what people put out for their high school open houses or Christmas parties. Some are basic with cheese, olives, and potato chips, others are RIDICULOUS with all that plus pasta dishes and pizza and desserts....
Needless to say I had to try it, and after gussying up a bit I headed to a cafe that was described as “a place to see and be seen” in a trendy neighborhood. It was really cute, but I found it a bit difficult to mingle as everyone was A: part of a group and B: speaking Italian. I had a bit to eat and decided to move on. As I walked around the city center, I noticed how beautiful Milan was. Really lovely. Anyway, I couldn’t find a place, and I started to feel lonely for the first time on the WHOLE trip. And since I didn’t want to just wander the streets and have a pity party, I did the unthinkable- I went to the touristy area in hopes of finding people that spoke English!! I’m so ashamed!!
I found a sign for “The English Football Pub” and went inside- Nope, all Italians and there was no bar? I noticed that at most every place I peeked into, the bar is for ordering, not really to sit down and have a drink... I left defeated, and decided to head to my hostel. As I walked home from the metro, a HUGE loud brawl broke out in the street! Like 20 young Italians throwing Heinekens at each other... So that cheered me up a little bit, but I still just wanted to go home.
When I got there my roommates, who I had never met, were all asleep- and it was 10:30... I used my handy little flashlight to find my way to the bathroom and WHAMM! I bang the SHIT out of my head on a random cross-beam! And I can’t even yell or curse it, because the girls are asleep! I wanted to KILL someone, or at least break a Heineken on the beam, or SOMETHING. But I just go to the bathroom and head to bed when WHAMM!! Yeah, I hit my head AGAIN!! I already forgot about the beam....
I wake up on my last day and I remember to duck for the beam, but there’s no toilet paper and there is a bug in the bidet, and I can’t believe this! I won’t even get into details about the rest- I had 1 hour to sightsee until my bus to the airport left, only when I get there after rushing and I’m seriously DRENCHED with sweat, they direct me to a completely different station across town, and when I get there I’m STILL rushing, and at the wrong counter and I find it, and when I get to the bus I see that I overpaid, but I don’t have time to go back, or I’ll miss the bus, and it’s packed and I’m sharing a seat, and now, you’re caught up to now, and it has actually REALLY helped to write all this down.
Honestly though, can you believe what a horrible time I just had? And by the way, I am SO hungry! SHEEEE-IT! No worries though, I’m headed to Barcelona to meet up with Sarah and Timothy (my sister and brother-in-law) and as long as I’m not mugged or tortured it WILL be better than this...
-H*
Pics from Milan: http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2145892&l=46f61&id=22001348
Sunday, October 19, 2008
Leaving Athens :(
On my last full day in Athens, I decided to relax. I watched movies all day and stepped out only to grab a sammy and check out a museum that Apollo, my Greek friend who showed me around the Acropolis, told me to see. I ordered a toasted sandwich with salad, tomato, feta, and french fries- SO GOOD! I ran into one of the employee’s from the hostel there and he was impressed that I found the place- it was a real local spot.
The Acropolis museum was brand new, and not fully finished. There was not much to see, but the architecture was AMAZING! Since Athens is such an old city, whenever there is new construction it is right on top of ruins. There were a lot of glass windows to the ruins beneath. It is so cool to see history in person, and I really loved that they planned for that in the construction- kudos to them!
Back at the hostel it was happy hour and it kicked off with a bang! We decided to use my pink playing cards for a large-scale drinking game. It was a good laugh and when the bar closed up, we headed to Lava Bore, the Serbian club. Again. Amazingly, the place was dead, even though it was a Friday. I sat outside and joined an old Greek guy for conversation.
Turns out, he owned the place and he was very polite and talkative- and interesting! He told me about his travels and how he unknowingly dated a prostitute and about his family and even introduced his wife when she arrived! When the place closed, I went with Nick, one of the bartenders the owner introduced to me, to a smaller, local spot. We had some beers and listened to great music and he told me all about Athens and his life as a footballer. On my trip I have really lucked out when it comes to meeting/adventuring with the locals.
We ended the night at Everest, a sandwich chain, and I told Nick to just get me whatever he was having- I didn’t really understand how to order. He ordered a custom sandwich topped with basically everything they offered! Ham, chicken breast, hard boiled egg, feta, a different kind of cheese, onion, tomato, french fries, lettuce, what looked like a smooth potato salad (?), and tzatziki. It was gluttonously delightful! Oh, and fyi: gluttonously didn’t come up on spell check- I guess it’s actually a word!
Anyway, I went home stuffed and fell right to sleep. Today was all about gearing up for my trip to Milano, which I’m not too excited about. My attitude will improve once I get there, I was just having such a good time in Athens. So I am on the plane now. I’ll tell you all about how it goes later...
-H*
Pics from Athens: http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2145376&l=b4c04&id=22001348
The Acropolis museum was brand new, and not fully finished. There was not much to see, but the architecture was AMAZING! Since Athens is such an old city, whenever there is new construction it is right on top of ruins. There were a lot of glass windows to the ruins beneath. It is so cool to see history in person, and I really loved that they planned for that in the construction- kudos to them!
Back at the hostel it was happy hour and it kicked off with a bang! We decided to use my pink playing cards for a large-scale drinking game. It was a good laugh and when the bar closed up, we headed to Lava Bore, the Serbian club. Again. Amazingly, the place was dead, even though it was a Friday. I sat outside and joined an old Greek guy for conversation.
Turns out, he owned the place and he was very polite and talkative- and interesting! He told me about his travels and how he unknowingly dated a prostitute and about his family and even introduced his wife when she arrived! When the place closed, I went with Nick, one of the bartenders the owner introduced to me, to a smaller, local spot. We had some beers and listened to great music and he told me all about Athens and his life as a footballer. On my trip I have really lucked out when it comes to meeting/adventuring with the locals.
We ended the night at Everest, a sandwich chain, and I told Nick to just get me whatever he was having- I didn’t really understand how to order. He ordered a custom sandwich topped with basically everything they offered! Ham, chicken breast, hard boiled egg, feta, a different kind of cheese, onion, tomato, french fries, lettuce, what looked like a smooth potato salad (?), and tzatziki. It was gluttonously delightful! Oh, and fyi: gluttonously didn’t come up on spell check- I guess it’s actually a word!
Anyway, I went home stuffed and fell right to sleep. Today was all about gearing up for my trip to Milano, which I’m not too excited about. My attitude will improve once I get there, I was just having such a good time in Athens. So I am on the plane now. I’ll tell you all about how it goes later...
-H*
Pics from Athens: http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2145376&l=b4c04&id=22001348
Saturday, October 18, 2008
An Athenian Adventure
My hostel is called Athens Backpackers and it is FAB. They have a happy hour with beers for a euro and when the bar closes at 11:30, everyone goes out together. Second night in town I made plans to go out with friends to a new disco, where we got to be on “the list.” I felt so VIP being on a “list” since it was only my second night in town!
Before the festivities were to begin, I went out for a bit to hear some music. I smiled at musicians playing in cafes as I passed. As has become the theme of my trip (life?), things went speedy fab ridiculous, and I just tried to keep up with myself! I started by heading to the local scene, but felt totally out of place sans make-up, proper dress, and Greek beauty! I stayed only long enough to get a feel for the culture of the scene.
Next I started wandering. In the distance I could hear drums- so listened and tried to pick out where it was coming from; I was mesmerized. Whomever was banging these drums was going to be my friend.... I followed the beat to the old city walls around the Acropolis- How do you get in?
I circled, stepping to the beat of the drum and COULD NOT figure out where to cross the fence! I marched around the whole damn Acropolis! The place was impenetrable- but I got the idea to construct a Trojan horse, which the guards would mistake for a gift, and then pass me through the walls, and I’d JUMP OUT and join the party. No, I just gave up haha :P
As I walked home, I saw the gypsies from earlier and paid them again to listen to their music. The father played an accordion, the mom a tamborine. The little gypsy girl danced and offered me what looked like a Christmas tree ornament. I was so happy and said thank you and headed to the hostel to get ready for my swanky VIP night on the town!
By the time I beautified, the Brazilian who was supposed to take me had run off, as had the hostel bar crawl- ALONE IN ATHENS! I did not feel very VIP... I took a deep breath, determined to have the night I had been promised.
I went to the strange Serb-filled disco from the night before. As I suspected, the bar crawl had headed there and I was able to snag its leader. The two of us escaped the madness and were able to join up with the party as planned. We started at a beautiful Greek restaurant, where the owner (who is the third generation to operate the place) gave us wine and bread and tzatziki and espresso and refused to take our money...
We cabbed it to Glow, the megadisco, where the night really started! We bypassed the cover and headed to our private table, in the center of the room on a slightly elevated platform, RIGHT on the dance floor! SO AMAZING! They gave us a bottle of rum and the music was banging! I HAD to dance! It happened again, like in Bratislava, where I had this strange cosmic connection with the music. I closed my eyes, and I just really DID NOT care about anything except dancing! I was going full out and I don’t know, it was just amazing and I felt like the beautiful Somalian go-go dancer skillfully shakin’ it on the box above me... My friend Laura told me she loved how I danced and I was just SO happy.....
We left around 4:30 and made plans to go to the beach and Ikea the next morning, but ended up being too tired to do either after our magic night on the town.... The next night was just as perfect, but I’ve gotta jet to Milano now- I’ll tell you all about it later!
-H*
Pics from Athens: http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2145376&l=b4c04&id=22001348
Before the festivities were to begin, I went out for a bit to hear some music. I smiled at musicians playing in cafes as I passed. As has become the theme of my trip (life?), things went speedy fab ridiculous, and I just tried to keep up with myself! I started by heading to the local scene, but felt totally out of place sans make-up, proper dress, and Greek beauty! I stayed only long enough to get a feel for the culture of the scene.
Next I started wandering. In the distance I could hear drums- so listened and tried to pick out where it was coming from; I was mesmerized. Whomever was banging these drums was going to be my friend.... I followed the beat to the old city walls around the Acropolis- How do you get in?
I circled, stepping to the beat of the drum and COULD NOT figure out where to cross the fence! I marched around the whole damn Acropolis! The place was impenetrable- but I got the idea to construct a Trojan horse, which the guards would mistake for a gift, and then pass me through the walls, and I’d JUMP OUT and join the party. No, I just gave up haha :P
As I walked home, I saw the gypsies from earlier and paid them again to listen to their music. The father played an accordion, the mom a tamborine. The little gypsy girl danced and offered me what looked like a Christmas tree ornament. I was so happy and said thank you and headed to the hostel to get ready for my swanky VIP night on the town!
By the time I beautified, the Brazilian who was supposed to take me had run off, as had the hostel bar crawl- ALONE IN ATHENS! I did not feel very VIP... I took a deep breath, determined to have the night I had been promised.
I went to the strange Serb-filled disco from the night before. As I suspected, the bar crawl had headed there and I was able to snag its leader. The two of us escaped the madness and were able to join up with the party as planned. We started at a beautiful Greek restaurant, where the owner (who is the third generation to operate the place) gave us wine and bread and tzatziki and espresso and refused to take our money...
We cabbed it to Glow, the megadisco, where the night really started! We bypassed the cover and headed to our private table, in the center of the room on a slightly elevated platform, RIGHT on the dance floor! SO AMAZING! They gave us a bottle of rum and the music was banging! I HAD to dance! It happened again, like in Bratislava, where I had this strange cosmic connection with the music. I closed my eyes, and I just really DID NOT care about anything except dancing! I was going full out and I don’t know, it was just amazing and I felt like the beautiful Somalian go-go dancer skillfully shakin’ it on the box above me... My friend Laura told me she loved how I danced and I was just SO happy.....
We left around 4:30 and made plans to go to the beach and Ikea the next morning, but ended up being too tired to do either after our magic night on the town.... The next night was just as perfect, but I’ve gotta jet to Milano now- I’ll tell you all about it later!
-H*
Pics from Athens: http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2145376&l=b4c04&id=22001348
Thursday, October 16, 2008
So, I love Athens, too....
I arrived to Athens via Rome, where I got to spend a glorious 7-hour layover! All I did was buy a panini and a postcard, but it was totally worth it to get out of the airport. Unfortunately, my camera was checked, so no pics, but i was there! Once in Athens I trained it to the center and found my hostel. The place is known for its bar and fab crowd. I got swallowed up by both and headed out for the night.
We passed the Acropolis, which is right by our hostel. AMAZING. It is from 300BC! So we walked by it like it was nothing and headed to an Irish Pub. I was famished and shared a chicken sammy. I watched an Ireland vs. Cyprus football match and cheered for both sides. I chatted with an Irish diabetes researcher, who periodically zoned out to scream at the television, a few Aussies who now call Athens home, and a pair of reunited friends from Italy and Brazil...
The Aussies and I hopped on a Vespa and rode through the city. I’ve only been on a motorbike a handful of times and it was SO fun! We rode through alleys and on sidewalks and I was squealing and giggling the whole time! I rode in the middle of the boys and they kept making fun of me for being so excited and for “Hayley’s little legs!”
We ended up at this disco where, for whatever reason, the crowd was all REALLY young. Like 15... The music was decent, so we stuck around, but it quickly became a real freak show.... The DJ started spinning only Serbian music (I guess the kids were all Serbian..?) and they went CRAZY! Shirtless and tired and young and drunk and excited and then, like they were catching a school bus, they all left in unison.
The bar was deserted, apart from about 10 of us. We danced to American music before calling it a night..
Today I settled into the place and went for lunch and to poke around the city a bit. As I looked for a lunch spot, I caught the eye of a man on a motor bike. I smiled, as my flirtatious self always does, but to my surprise, he literally stopped his bike and walked it along beside me! He asked “how long are you in town?” “Leaving today, sorry..” I lied. “It is a shame.” He looked me in the eyes, and held my chin in his hand. “You are beautiful.” And he hopped on his bike and rode away. So random, but it was nice. I was flattered and in awe and loving the very-forward culture.
I found a very local-looking spot and watched the Presidential debates over lunch- lamb kebab with onion, tomato, tzatziki, pita, and french fries! Then I went to the Acropolis. I was a bit late and didn’t feel like paying 12 Euro for the half hour until close. I walked around the grounds and smiled at an older man on a bench.
“Where are you from? Come over here!” he said. His name was Apollo- like the God, and he was a real character. He also worked in restaurants and traveled the globe- Finland, South Africa, Madagascar..... He took me to a lookout point and told me all about the city below. We snapped a photo and parted ways; Both of us had friends to meet.
I headed to the hostel and met up with friends for a hike to watch the world’s most beautiful sunset. It was amazing. On the way home I saw a gypsy family playing music on a set of steps. I offered some money and asked them for a photograph. We continued back home, and now I’m about to head out to the neighborhood Apollo recommended for live Greek music. I am loving this city. A lot of the young people here feel the same, and apparently just never go home. That's an idea....
-H*
Pics from Athens: http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2145376&l=b4c04&id=22001348
We passed the Acropolis, which is right by our hostel. AMAZING. It is from 300BC! So we walked by it like it was nothing and headed to an Irish Pub. I was famished and shared a chicken sammy. I watched an Ireland vs. Cyprus football match and cheered for both sides. I chatted with an Irish diabetes researcher, who periodically zoned out to scream at the television, a few Aussies who now call Athens home, and a pair of reunited friends from Italy and Brazil...
The Aussies and I hopped on a Vespa and rode through the city. I’ve only been on a motorbike a handful of times and it was SO fun! We rode through alleys and on sidewalks and I was squealing and giggling the whole time! I rode in the middle of the boys and they kept making fun of me for being so excited and for “Hayley’s little legs!”
We ended up at this disco where, for whatever reason, the crowd was all REALLY young. Like 15... The music was decent, so we stuck around, but it quickly became a real freak show.... The DJ started spinning only Serbian music (I guess the kids were all Serbian..?) and they went CRAZY! Shirtless and tired and young and drunk and excited and then, like they were catching a school bus, they all left in unison.
The bar was deserted, apart from about 10 of us. We danced to American music before calling it a night..
Today I settled into the place and went for lunch and to poke around the city a bit. As I looked for a lunch spot, I caught the eye of a man on a motor bike. I smiled, as my flirtatious self always does, but to my surprise, he literally stopped his bike and walked it along beside me! He asked “how long are you in town?” “Leaving today, sorry..” I lied. “It is a shame.” He looked me in the eyes, and held my chin in his hand. “You are beautiful.” And he hopped on his bike and rode away. So random, but it was nice. I was flattered and in awe and loving the very-forward culture.
I found a very local-looking spot and watched the Presidential debates over lunch- lamb kebab with onion, tomato, tzatziki, pita, and french fries! Then I went to the Acropolis. I was a bit late and didn’t feel like paying 12 Euro for the half hour until close. I walked around the grounds and smiled at an older man on a bench.
“Where are you from? Come over here!” he said. His name was Apollo- like the God, and he was a real character. He also worked in restaurants and traveled the globe- Finland, South Africa, Madagascar..... He took me to a lookout point and told me all about the city below. We snapped a photo and parted ways; Both of us had friends to meet.
I headed to the hostel and met up with friends for a hike to watch the world’s most beautiful sunset. It was amazing. On the way home I saw a gypsy family playing music on a set of steps. I offered some money and asked them for a photograph. We continued back home, and now I’m about to head out to the neighborhood Apollo recommended for live Greek music. I am loving this city. A lot of the young people here feel the same, and apparently just never go home. That's an idea....
-H*
Pics from Athens: http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2145376&l=b4c04&id=22001348
Wednesday, October 15, 2008
So long Budapest, Hello Athens!
For whatever reason, my departure from Budapest was also a mess. It started yesterday. For my last day, I felt like lazing around. I had started to feel a bit cold-ish and even homesick-ish. So I spent the day in bed, watching movies online. “The Fall” is incredible, by the way...
Later in the evening I felt up for getting some fresh air, so I decided to check out Cafe Montmartre, where some of the girls that I met the other night are waitresses. None of them were working, but luckily Edit was there hanging out. I joined her and I talked with the waitresses and the boss about my travels and my life in New York and heard a bit of their stories, as well. The girls were all my age and so nice! They told me that Hungarian girls have deep friendships, like sisters, and that the competitive thing we have back home simply doesn’t exist. They talked to me about their love of American culture- they feel so bad for Britney, and for Jennifer Aniston since Angelina stole her man! haha
They introduced me to the local homeless man who frequents the bar and helps out in exchange for food and drink. I also met some bar regulars, a couple of which were American. They told me that it was easy for them to leave the States because while living there, they always felt out of place. I could relate, but I guess I haven’t found that place where I felt that I fit in exactly, either...
After a couple drinks and a bar tab that was WAY too low, Edit and I headed to the club where we met a few days before. My DJ friend and some of his friends were already there. It was strange because he said he had stopped by my hostel looking for me the last two nights, and here we are running into each other. Anyway, we all joined up and had another fab night at what has proven to be my favorite spot in Budapest.
It’s funny- I have been very good about buying a post card from each city I visit, and after five days in Budapest, I still forgot. I don’t know what I was doing there, really; I have no idea. Budapest is a city of smoke and lies. The air is thick with music and penetrating stares. It is a city I love to hate. Or do I hate to love....?
I woke up late- I didn't hear my alarm and one of my hostel roommates kindly woke me up and I ran to the taxi I had reserved downstairs. However, once inside, I couldn't find my debit card and was scared I left it at the hostel, so I had him take me back. I looked upstairs and couldn't find it. I ran back down, and no joke, it was RIGHT on top of my carry-on bag..? I think Budapest did it to me so I'd miss my flight. I figured it out though, and got a new taxi. I’m on to Athens via Rome. I’ll tell you all about it.
-H*
Pics from Budapest: http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2144654&l=279eb&id=22001348
Later in the evening I felt up for getting some fresh air, so I decided to check out Cafe Montmartre, where some of the girls that I met the other night are waitresses. None of them were working, but luckily Edit was there hanging out. I joined her and I talked with the waitresses and the boss about my travels and my life in New York and heard a bit of their stories, as well. The girls were all my age and so nice! They told me that Hungarian girls have deep friendships, like sisters, and that the competitive thing we have back home simply doesn’t exist. They talked to me about their love of American culture- they feel so bad for Britney, and for Jennifer Aniston since Angelina stole her man! haha
They introduced me to the local homeless man who frequents the bar and helps out in exchange for food and drink. I also met some bar regulars, a couple of which were American. They told me that it was easy for them to leave the States because while living there, they always felt out of place. I could relate, but I guess I haven’t found that place where I felt that I fit in exactly, either...
After a couple drinks and a bar tab that was WAY too low, Edit and I headed to the club where we met a few days before. My DJ friend and some of his friends were already there. It was strange because he said he had stopped by my hostel looking for me the last two nights, and here we are running into each other. Anyway, we all joined up and had another fab night at what has proven to be my favorite spot in Budapest.
It’s funny- I have been very good about buying a post card from each city I visit, and after five days in Budapest, I still forgot. I don’t know what I was doing there, really; I have no idea. Budapest is a city of smoke and lies. The air is thick with music and penetrating stares. It is a city I love to hate. Or do I hate to love....?
I woke up late- I didn't hear my alarm and one of my hostel roommates kindly woke me up and I ran to the taxi I had reserved downstairs. However, once inside, I couldn't find my debit card and was scared I left it at the hostel, so I had him take me back. I looked upstairs and couldn't find it. I ran back down, and no joke, it was RIGHT on top of my carry-on bag..? I think Budapest did it to me so I'd miss my flight. I figured it out though, and got a new taxi. I’m on to Athens via Rome. I’ll tell you all about it.
-H*
Pics from Budapest: http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2144654&l=279eb&id=22001348
Tuesday, October 14, 2008
Last Night in Budapest...
Budapest has kept me longer than I imagined it would. In fact, when I first got to the city I was really put off by the place. Near the train station countless shady-looking men offered to exchange money, gypsies asked for change, and old men ogled as I passed, struggling to drag my suitcase. I planned on staying one night.
However, my hostel has been fabulous and I’ve made some great friends in this city. The DJ I met the other night invited me out with some friends of his. I mentioned the unique fashion of the city before, and I asked him how to dress for the night. He told me that here, it should be a mix of “extravaganza, sexiness, and elegance.” I wore leopard print tights and black boots with a black dress and several accessories- PERFECT!
We drove around for a bit, and he pointed out some of the city’s sites. We stopped at a gas station and bought some snacks- an orange lollipop and a Coca Cola light for me, several warm chocolate rolls for him and his friend. Next we went to a place where they “knew the owners” and sat outdoors on a modern patio. We were near the windows and could hear really amazing live jazz coming from inside. I had a beer, while the others had wine spritzers and fruit juices- the place had about 20 different kinds of juice!
People came and went from our table all evening. There were three other 23-year-old girls who gossiped with me about romance and how “when you are a woman you have to be strong and smart, but at the same time the opposite.” A famous Hungarian artist, whose work you can see here: http://www.efzambo.hu/index.htm, also stopped by. He and his friend wore t-shirts with his work “Mourning” on the front. He described it for me, making sure to point out that the beam of light from the coffin represented the penis of the deceased....
We later met some Polish girls at a different club. The decor was incredible. There were long cords dangling from the ceiling with baby doll heads on the end. They glowed and had beads hanging from their necks. When you sat on the couches, they were at eye level...
A photographer took several pictures of our group and promises to Email them. I ran into a friend from Bratislava, said hello, and the interesting night came to an end. I went to the DJ’s house where he made a sort of ratatouille with sausages and eggs. I met his brother and the three of us watched a Woody Allen movie, “Play it Again, Sam,” and I fell asleep. For whatever reason, I’m still here hanging around, but I booked a ticket for Athens and I leave in the morning. I'll tell you how that goes....
-H*
However, my hostel has been fabulous and I’ve made some great friends in this city. The DJ I met the other night invited me out with some friends of his. I mentioned the unique fashion of the city before, and I asked him how to dress for the night. He told me that here, it should be a mix of “extravaganza, sexiness, and elegance.” I wore leopard print tights and black boots with a black dress and several accessories- PERFECT!
We drove around for a bit, and he pointed out some of the city’s sites. We stopped at a gas station and bought some snacks- an orange lollipop and a Coca Cola light for me, several warm chocolate rolls for him and his friend. Next we went to a place where they “knew the owners” and sat outdoors on a modern patio. We were near the windows and could hear really amazing live jazz coming from inside. I had a beer, while the others had wine spritzers and fruit juices- the place had about 20 different kinds of juice!
People came and went from our table all evening. There were three other 23-year-old girls who gossiped with me about romance and how “when you are a woman you have to be strong and smart, but at the same time the opposite.” A famous Hungarian artist, whose work you can see here: http://www.efzambo.hu/index.htm, also stopped by. He and his friend wore t-shirts with his work “Mourning” on the front. He described it for me, making sure to point out that the beam of light from the coffin represented the penis of the deceased....
We later met some Polish girls at a different club. The decor was incredible. There were long cords dangling from the ceiling with baby doll heads on the end. They glowed and had beads hanging from their necks. When you sat on the couches, they were at eye level...
A photographer took several pictures of our group and promises to Email them. I ran into a friend from Bratislava, said hello, and the interesting night came to an end. I went to the DJ’s house where he made a sort of ratatouille with sausages and eggs. I met his brother and the three of us watched a Woody Allen movie, “Play it Again, Sam,” and I fell asleep. For whatever reason, I’m still here hanging around, but I booked a ticket for Athens and I leave in the morning. I'll tell you how that goes....
-H*
Monday, October 13, 2008
Budapest Won't Let Me Leave...
So as you know, getting to Budapest was almost IMPOSSIBLE- i bought my ticket on board and had to pay about double for it; it would’ve been 15 euro at the station, but cost 30 on board. I did arrive in one piece, and safe, so I can’t really complain. PLUS traveling through central and eastern europe has proven to be soooo cheap that I’m way under budget!
I don’t even know where to begin with Budapest. It is such a strange city. I’ll start by painting it for you. Imagine old, old ornate buildings, all about 5 stories high. They are all unique with intricate architectural details and flower-filled window boxes and small satellite dishes and open windows with delicate curtains breezing into the streets.
On street level, small markets and restaurants peek from inside. On main avenues they are obvious, with flashy signs, on side streets they are almost hidden. The people are so unique to this city- the men large, rough like bull dogs with hair gel. They stare, smiling as you pass and crane their necks to follow you down the avenues. The women are thin with bleached hair and a fashion sense unique to this part of the world- they wear sequins and gold lame (i mean lah-may not lame haha) and lace tights with denim shorts and tall boots and hold hands with each other....
And I’ve just been walking around, taking it all in. I spent the day by myself and started with a Hungarian meal- chicken leg (off the bone) with roasted potatoes. I could barely eat half of the portion and left so full that I didn’t feel up for the walking tour I had planned. I took it slow and made my way to Szechenyi baths. I ended up walking completely across Pest to get there, but it was worth it. FYI: Budapest is actually 2 cities, Buda and Pest. They are separated by the Danube, but connected by bridges and metro lines. Surprisingly, there is no real rivalry, it’s just accepted that the Buda side is ritzier...
Anyway- the baths were amazing! So relaxing, and I floated around and breathed deeply and had a water massage and relaxed. When I came home around 11, new travelers had turned up at our hostel. The place only has 12 beds, so we all know each other. They told me that we were going out- me, 2 Canadians, another American, and an Argentinean. Our hostel owner, who is QUITE the character, recommended a disco for us- Studio.
We paid a taxi to take us to the island between Buda and Pest, where the discotech was. I was wearing sneakers and a denim jacket and did NOT feel comfortable with the locals dressed to the nines- none of us did! We cabbed it back to Pest to a place I had seen on my walk- The Old Man’s Pub. The music was no good, but I ran into an Australian friend from Bratislava and we all hung out together.
We bar-hopped and as we walked, I heard some bass from a small, unmarked door, just below street level. I pushed the door open, and the night BEGAN!
It was an underground spot and it was packed! Mostly locals, but we hit it off with some travelers from London and a few Hungarians eager to practice their English. A strange, drunk-o approached our group, and when no one would pay him any attention, he, how can I put this delicately, whipped out his penis and started peeing all over the floor. WOW.
The Australian ran to his aid and told him, “The wall is your friend, just go to the wall...” And we got him under control and the Hungarians told us they had never seen anything like it, and we just laughed it off. When the DJ finished his set, around 4am, he and I became fast friends. He invited me and “just 2 others” to an after hours spot. I took the Australian and his traveling mate.
The after hours spot was also insane and a group of Spaniards chatted with us and bought me a beer. It was mostly just conversation and winding down. A lot of people bought stale pizza from the bar, which they all topped with ketchup(?) and I watched it all... I headed home around 9am...
-H*
Pics from Budapest: http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2144654&l=279eb&id=22001348
I don’t even know where to begin with Budapest. It is such a strange city. I’ll start by painting it for you. Imagine old, old ornate buildings, all about 5 stories high. They are all unique with intricate architectural details and flower-filled window boxes and small satellite dishes and open windows with delicate curtains breezing into the streets.
On street level, small markets and restaurants peek from inside. On main avenues they are obvious, with flashy signs, on side streets they are almost hidden. The people are so unique to this city- the men large, rough like bull dogs with hair gel. They stare, smiling as you pass and crane their necks to follow you down the avenues. The women are thin with bleached hair and a fashion sense unique to this part of the world- they wear sequins and gold lame (i mean lah-may not lame haha) and lace tights with denim shorts and tall boots and hold hands with each other....
And I’ve just been walking around, taking it all in. I spent the day by myself and started with a Hungarian meal- chicken leg (off the bone) with roasted potatoes. I could barely eat half of the portion and left so full that I didn’t feel up for the walking tour I had planned. I took it slow and made my way to Szechenyi baths. I ended up walking completely across Pest to get there, but it was worth it. FYI: Budapest is actually 2 cities, Buda and Pest. They are separated by the Danube, but connected by bridges and metro lines. Surprisingly, there is no real rivalry, it’s just accepted that the Buda side is ritzier...
Anyway- the baths were amazing! So relaxing, and I floated around and breathed deeply and had a water massage and relaxed. When I came home around 11, new travelers had turned up at our hostel. The place only has 12 beds, so we all know each other. They told me that we were going out- me, 2 Canadians, another American, and an Argentinean. Our hostel owner, who is QUITE the character, recommended a disco for us- Studio.
We paid a taxi to take us to the island between Buda and Pest, where the discotech was. I was wearing sneakers and a denim jacket and did NOT feel comfortable with the locals dressed to the nines- none of us did! We cabbed it back to Pest to a place I had seen on my walk- The Old Man’s Pub. The music was no good, but I ran into an Australian friend from Bratislava and we all hung out together.
We bar-hopped and as we walked, I heard some bass from a small, unmarked door, just below street level. I pushed the door open, and the night BEGAN!
It was an underground spot and it was packed! Mostly locals, but we hit it off with some travelers from London and a few Hungarians eager to practice their English. A strange, drunk-o approached our group, and when no one would pay him any attention, he, how can I put this delicately, whipped out his penis and started peeing all over the floor. WOW.
The Australian ran to his aid and told him, “The wall is your friend, just go to the wall...” And we got him under control and the Hungarians told us they had never seen anything like it, and we just laughed it off. When the DJ finished his set, around 4am, he and I became fast friends. He invited me and “just 2 others” to an after hours spot. I took the Australian and his traveling mate.
The after hours spot was also insane and a group of Spaniards chatted with us and bought me a beer. It was mostly just conversation and winding down. A lot of people bought stale pizza from the bar, which they all topped with ketchup(?) and I watched it all... I headed home around 9am...
-H*
Pics from Budapest: http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2144654&l=279eb&id=22001348
Friday, October 10, 2008
The Departure from HELL!
Today I got up really early because, um... Let’s just say the Slovak food did not agree with me. At all. Let’s just say it was fighting a full on WAR with my intestines. Let’s not talk explosives or exit strategy, let’s just leave it at that.
Anyway I got ready and packed up. Jose, my Spanish, freak show roommate happened to be heading to Budapest today, as well, and wanted to travel together. I politely declined and headed out for breaDfast. Yes, I call it breadfast now because I’ve started heading to the supermarket, buying a couple bread products of some kind and a Coca Cola Light, and thats the meal- breadfast.
So I ate in a square with free wifi and saw that it was about time to head over to the bus station. I got there a little early and went to the ticket counter. “1-way to Budapest please.” “No.” The ticket lady says. “Budapest out of Central Station- not here. Central Station 3 kilometers.” And she points.
So I have 11 minutes to go 3 km and buy a ticket and board- I can do it! I grab a taxi, which ends up taking 5 minutes for whatever reason. Then we get there and its 236Sk or about 8 Euro and I don’t have the right change and neither does the driver and I give him what I have and he chases me and I just give him 10 euros and I have, like 1 minute, and I run but there is a line, and then the lady says the bus is operated by a Hungarian company and she can’t sell a ticket, and she doesn’t know if I can buy on board, and I’m mad because, “Well, how can anyone buy a ticket, then?” and she’s annoyed and it’s 10:50, and the bus is gone anyway...
So I decided that I should just walk to the train station and take the 11:45 train to Budapest, even though it’s more expensive. And as I’m walking and checking the map, I realize the station is a LOT further than I thought- like about 5km total! Not that that’s so far, but I’m dragging a heavy suitcase, carrying my backpack, AND the leftovers from breadfast- I seriously have to rush!
I’m chugging along now, red-faced and panting; I’m sure I look so pathetic. I feel so weak and exhausted and the shitty thing is, I have to keep going or now I’ll miss the train, too! I really wish that someone was filming this, I’m sure it would be so funny, ya know, in a sad kind of way...
The truth is though, as I’m walking up the home stretch, and I can see the station, the clock tower says 11:41., and I just can’t hustle anymore... I said to myself, “It’s ok, girl. You really, really tried. Now you can relax at the station, and when you finally do get to Budapest you can go to the famous thermal baths, and just soak all night...”
So I walk into the station at 11:47, and notice that the train to Budapest has been delayed 5 minutes! If I really rush, I can figure out how to work the machines and switch it to English and enter the right border crossing and tell it how many total kilometers, and..? But I can’t figure it out so I run to the ticket counter, but the line is so long and I only have 2 minutes to make the DELAY, and I see an information booth so I run and ask if I can just buy the ticket on board and “Ok, what is the price difference,” and she’s eating soup and she finishes her mouth full and says she “has no idea,” and I see that the exit is roped off, but she says I can sneak under and I’m sweating and huffy puffy and I do, and I drag the bag on its side under the barrier and I’m on the platform looking for a conductor or anyone to ask about the price, because they really jack it up on board, and I see him at the end of the train, on the far end of the platform and I’m running, waving my free arm, and it’s just me on the platform and he motions that it’s all clear so I jump on and sit down in the door of the train and hit my cheek on the doorway and lift my bag and pull it up and I just need to know what it costs, but there is NO ONE who isn’t a passenger and I’m running in the aisles because I have to get to the first car and OH MY GOD- the train is moving! I’m going, like it or not!!!
I’m on the train now. Hope it’s not too expensive- I’ll let you know...
-H*
Anyway I got ready and packed up. Jose, my Spanish, freak show roommate happened to be heading to Budapest today, as well, and wanted to travel together. I politely declined and headed out for breaDfast. Yes, I call it breadfast now because I’ve started heading to the supermarket, buying a couple bread products of some kind and a Coca Cola Light, and thats the meal- breadfast.
So I ate in a square with free wifi and saw that it was about time to head over to the bus station. I got there a little early and went to the ticket counter. “1-way to Budapest please.” “No.” The ticket lady says. “Budapest out of Central Station- not here. Central Station 3 kilometers.” And she points.
So I have 11 minutes to go 3 km and buy a ticket and board- I can do it! I grab a taxi, which ends up taking 5 minutes for whatever reason. Then we get there and its 236Sk or about 8 Euro and I don’t have the right change and neither does the driver and I give him what I have and he chases me and I just give him 10 euros and I have, like 1 minute, and I run but there is a line, and then the lady says the bus is operated by a Hungarian company and she can’t sell a ticket, and she doesn’t know if I can buy on board, and I’m mad because, “Well, how can anyone buy a ticket, then?” and she’s annoyed and it’s 10:50, and the bus is gone anyway...
So I decided that I should just walk to the train station and take the 11:45 train to Budapest, even though it’s more expensive. And as I’m walking and checking the map, I realize the station is a LOT further than I thought- like about 5km total! Not that that’s so far, but I’m dragging a heavy suitcase, carrying my backpack, AND the leftovers from breadfast- I seriously have to rush!
I’m chugging along now, red-faced and panting; I’m sure I look so pathetic. I feel so weak and exhausted and the shitty thing is, I have to keep going or now I’ll miss the train, too! I really wish that someone was filming this, I’m sure it would be so funny, ya know, in a sad kind of way...
The truth is though, as I’m walking up the home stretch, and I can see the station, the clock tower says 11:41., and I just can’t hustle anymore... I said to myself, “It’s ok, girl. You really, really tried. Now you can relax at the station, and when you finally do get to Budapest you can go to the famous thermal baths, and just soak all night...”
So I walk into the station at 11:47, and notice that the train to Budapest has been delayed 5 minutes! If I really rush, I can figure out how to work the machines and switch it to English and enter the right border crossing and tell it how many total kilometers, and..? But I can’t figure it out so I run to the ticket counter, but the line is so long and I only have 2 minutes to make the DELAY, and I see an information booth so I run and ask if I can just buy the ticket on board and “Ok, what is the price difference,” and she’s eating soup and she finishes her mouth full and says she “has no idea,” and I see that the exit is roped off, but she says I can sneak under and I’m sweating and huffy puffy and I do, and I drag the bag on its side under the barrier and I’m on the platform looking for a conductor or anyone to ask about the price, because they really jack it up on board, and I see him at the end of the train, on the far end of the platform and I’m running, waving my free arm, and it’s just me on the platform and he motions that it’s all clear so I jump on and sit down in the door of the train and hit my cheek on the doorway and lift my bag and pull it up and I just need to know what it costs, but there is NO ONE who isn’t a passenger and I’m running in the aisles because I have to get to the first car and OH MY GOD- the train is moving! I’m going, like it or not!!!
I’m on the train now. Hope it’s not too expensive- I’ll let you know...
-H*
Gettin Down in Bratislava!!
My stay in Bratislava, Slovakia has been soooo amazing! It started off a bit rocky. I arrived by night and couldn't find a bathroom or my hostel for the life of me, but I found my way after walking a bit and was totally relieved, pun intended. It was pretty late and I was tired so I just headed upstairs.
These four Aussies were playing cards in the room so I talked to them for a bit and then put on a movie in my half of the suite (the two rooms were adjoined by a door but to get to my room I had to go through theirs). As I was half way through my movie and half way to sleep, an old-ish Spaniard entered. He flipped on the lights and began to undress.
I was like, "Hi!! Sorry.." And he says, "Ay! Perdon, perdon! Estaba solo..." blah blah blah in Spanish. Luckily I speak Spanish so we small-talked. He was from Zaragoza, a town not too far from Madrid, and his name was Jose. He told me I talked like a Mexican, and did I mention that he continued to undress as we were talking? So strange. So he gets down to his boxers, which were totally hanging OPEN, and straight up PASSES OUT. On top of the covers and everything... I fell asleep soon after, not sure what to make of the encounter.
When I got up, he was already busying about the room, and no joke, he says, "Hi, I'm Jose." I told him that he had already introduced HIMSELF, and was like, "Oh, sorry- I was a little drunk last night.." So all this passes before I even get up on day 1- FABULOUS! I got dressed and ready and headed to this tour of the city. I've found English-speaking tours to be a good way to meet people. Everyone, especially on tours of these somewhat obscure cities, is usually traveling all over and excited to meet others doing the same. So I got down there and took the tour and was SO impressed!
Bratislava is new to the European Union and will have the Euro starting in January. It is definitely a developing city, with ruins from when they were still under communism making up a large part of the cityscape. I definitely predict that this will change very quickly, though. There is new construction everywhere and a lot of old structures are being rehabbed. It will totally be a destination city within 5 years or so.
Anyway, after the tour I bought some chocolate from a place the tour guide told me was, "just like the movie 'Chocolat,'" and headed toward home. I ate some goulash and Slovak dumplings for dinner and got ready for a night on the town. The Aussies from the previous night plus one other Aussie and I watched “The Big Lebowski,” and they invited me to this "crazy club in a bunker" that they had heard about. I didn’t know what that even meant but was totally down.
We headed out and got lost for a bit. I, being the only female in the group, got annoyed and asked a local for directions. It turns out you have to walk till the sidewalk runs out and literally merge onto the highway, staying toward the curb, until there is a gap in the fence. You sneak through the gap, and there is an AMAZING club there, right beneath the Bratislava Castle- I am not kidding!
Even though the place is ridiculously hard to find and there is no sign of it until you show up at the door, it was PACKED! The cover was 150Sk or 5 Euros, but drinks were cheap- 1 Euro for this crappy beer in a plastic cup. Anyway the Aussies bought me a beer and after thanking them and downing it, I made my way to the dance floor.
I can’t even describe... -This place was INSANE! It was packed and people were all kinds of twisted- some sweaty and dancing, others swaying half-dead-drunk, while this blonde with dreads lectured about everything from the evolution of “Jungle” music to Iran’s nuclear program, while a red-faced guy in a pink tutu with flashing pink bunny ears jumped around the room like a butterfly on crack... In a word- HEAVEN!!
I was so hooked. I danced FOREVER! The strobe was so intense you couldn’t tell if people were dancing all jerky-posed on purpose or if it was the lights. You couldn’t tell if you were dancing or just keeping your balance on the muddy, cheap beer-soaked floor. You couldn’t tell if you were in love with the guy who could dance so well, or even who was who, at all.
In the midst of all this, the plus one Aussie comes over and grabs me by the shoulder, “I think they want to go.” he says. “Ok, cool.” I say, and we pack up and leave.
My heart was pounding and I’m on the highway by one side of this beautiful bridge that crosses the blue Danube. What just happened??
-H*
Pics from Bratislava: http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2144476&l=f22ca&id=22001348
These four Aussies were playing cards in the room so I talked to them for a bit and then put on a movie in my half of the suite (the two rooms were adjoined by a door but to get to my room I had to go through theirs). As I was half way through my movie and half way to sleep, an old-ish Spaniard entered. He flipped on the lights and began to undress.
I was like, "Hi!! Sorry.." And he says, "Ay! Perdon, perdon! Estaba solo..." blah blah blah in Spanish. Luckily I speak Spanish so we small-talked. He was from Zaragoza, a town not too far from Madrid, and his name was Jose. He told me I talked like a Mexican, and did I mention that he continued to undress as we were talking? So strange. So he gets down to his boxers, which were totally hanging OPEN, and straight up PASSES OUT. On top of the covers and everything... I fell asleep soon after, not sure what to make of the encounter.
When I got up, he was already busying about the room, and no joke, he says, "Hi, I'm Jose." I told him that he had already introduced HIMSELF, and was like, "Oh, sorry- I was a little drunk last night.." So all this passes before I even get up on day 1- FABULOUS! I got dressed and ready and headed to this tour of the city. I've found English-speaking tours to be a good way to meet people. Everyone, especially on tours of these somewhat obscure cities, is usually traveling all over and excited to meet others doing the same. So I got down there and took the tour and was SO impressed!
Bratislava is new to the European Union and will have the Euro starting in January. It is definitely a developing city, with ruins from when they were still under communism making up a large part of the cityscape. I definitely predict that this will change very quickly, though. There is new construction everywhere and a lot of old structures are being rehabbed. It will totally be a destination city within 5 years or so.
Anyway, after the tour I bought some chocolate from a place the tour guide told me was, "just like the movie 'Chocolat,'" and headed toward home. I ate some goulash and Slovak dumplings for dinner and got ready for a night on the town. The Aussies from the previous night plus one other Aussie and I watched “The Big Lebowski,” and they invited me to this "crazy club in a bunker" that they had heard about. I didn’t know what that even meant but was totally down.
We headed out and got lost for a bit. I, being the only female in the group, got annoyed and asked a local for directions. It turns out you have to walk till the sidewalk runs out and literally merge onto the highway, staying toward the curb, until there is a gap in the fence. You sneak through the gap, and there is an AMAZING club there, right beneath the Bratislava Castle- I am not kidding!
Even though the place is ridiculously hard to find and there is no sign of it until you show up at the door, it was PACKED! The cover was 150Sk or 5 Euros, but drinks were cheap- 1 Euro for this crappy beer in a plastic cup. Anyway the Aussies bought me a beer and after thanking them and downing it, I made my way to the dance floor.
I can’t even describe... -This place was INSANE! It was packed and people were all kinds of twisted- some sweaty and dancing, others swaying half-dead-drunk, while this blonde with dreads lectured about everything from the evolution of “Jungle” music to Iran’s nuclear program, while a red-faced guy in a pink tutu with flashing pink bunny ears jumped around the room like a butterfly on crack... In a word- HEAVEN!!
I was so hooked. I danced FOREVER! The strobe was so intense you couldn’t tell if people were dancing all jerky-posed on purpose or if it was the lights. You couldn’t tell if you were dancing or just keeping your balance on the muddy, cheap beer-soaked floor. You couldn’t tell if you were in love with the guy who could dance so well, or even who was who, at all.
In the midst of all this, the plus one Aussie comes over and grabs me by the shoulder, “I think they want to go.” he says. “Ok, cool.” I say, and we pack up and leave.
My heart was pounding and I’m on the highway by one side of this beautiful bridge that crosses the blue Danube. What just happened??
-H*
Pics from Bratislava: http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2144476&l=f22ca&id=22001348
Wednesday, October 8, 2008
While in Wien...
So today was a strange day. I got up early, like too early and headed to the bus station in Prague. I had been having trouble making withdrawals, so luckily I had enough euros to switch to Czech Kc to buy the ticket to get outta town AND by a Kinder Bueno candy bar. Phew!
As I mentioned earlier the bus had some weird problem so we had to switch to another. The new one was fine though, and I slept the whole way- 4 hours! Once we got to Vienna I left the bus station and wandered for a minute. Oh, they call it Wien here, and use the word Wiener instead of Viennese. Try not to laugh. Anyway, the area around the bus station looked like the outskirts of some industrial town, modern and deserted looking. I was like, “Ok, where is all the Mozart stuff? And the Wiener Schnitzel?”
I decided I better ask someone where the trains to city center were. By this time I’m running REAL low on dough, and starting to stress. PLUS most trains in Europe are kind of trust-based, and I really wanted to sneak, but I didn’t. I bought the ticket and headed to the main square, Stephansplatz. When I came up I was totally blown away. BEAUTIFUL! Totally looked like what I thought Vienna should. But nevermind that, I was broke!
I found the nearest ATM- rejected. invalid. unauthorized. broke ass AMERICAN! ouch. I tried about 10 others then went inside Bank Austria. The tellers were mean and rude and since I hadn’t signed the back of my debit card, they wouldn’t help me. Plus, they didn’t like when I signed it with THEIR pen and then kind of put it a little too close to their faces to show off my autograph. Whatev. Then I tried calling the international toll free number on the back of my card, but it was out of service..?
Then I went to a third bank. This nice old man helped me and I started to have hope. Then he was like, “sorry I’m not authorized to work with Visa. Go to that bank.” He totally pointed to the one where ONLY assholes work. I swallowed my pride and put on my game face.
When I walked in I think I was actually doing the old “punch one hand with other fist” move. It seemed to intimidate this one queeny, fab-looking teller. So I went in for the kill. I was all, “I need to be connected with an International Visa Card Member Representative- IMMEDIATELY!”
And he totally snapped to it! They connected me with Visa Customer Services, who had some suggestions, but then just connected me to JP Morgan Chase directly. They told me that they just wanted to make sure I really was traveling and using the card abroad and all before they authorized more charges. I told them it was all good, and they made my card work within 5 minutes! AMAZING!
When I left the bank I actually started to appreciate the beauty of the city that I hadn’t noticed as I ran frantically from ATM to ATM. I looked around and kind of whimpered. I think I looked “moved” to the people around me, because I happened to be staring at a church, but I was like, “No, it’s that I’m RICH now!” But they didn’t speak English so I just smiled and pointed at the church- I mean, I was moved after all...
After this ordeal, I was relieved. But then I was like, how come the banks are so concerned about me now. What about when my address change was making credit card payments bounce? Or when a pending charge, which was a refundable deposit, over-drafted me? Yeah, none of that was my fault but IIIIII paid..? Least they could do is bitch out those Wiener bankers for me....
-H*
Pics from Vienna: http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2144383&l=dc479&id=22001348
As I mentioned earlier the bus had some weird problem so we had to switch to another. The new one was fine though, and I slept the whole way- 4 hours! Once we got to Vienna I left the bus station and wandered for a minute. Oh, they call it Wien here, and use the word Wiener instead of Viennese. Try not to laugh. Anyway, the area around the bus station looked like the outskirts of some industrial town, modern and deserted looking. I was like, “Ok, where is all the Mozart stuff? And the Wiener Schnitzel?”
I decided I better ask someone where the trains to city center were. By this time I’m running REAL low on dough, and starting to stress. PLUS most trains in Europe are kind of trust-based, and I really wanted to sneak, but I didn’t. I bought the ticket and headed to the main square, Stephansplatz. When I came up I was totally blown away. BEAUTIFUL! Totally looked like what I thought Vienna should. But nevermind that, I was broke!
I found the nearest ATM- rejected. invalid. unauthorized. broke ass AMERICAN! ouch. I tried about 10 others then went inside Bank Austria. The tellers were mean and rude and since I hadn’t signed the back of my debit card, they wouldn’t help me. Plus, they didn’t like when I signed it with THEIR pen and then kind of put it a little too close to their faces to show off my autograph. Whatev. Then I tried calling the international toll free number on the back of my card, but it was out of service..?
Then I went to a third bank. This nice old man helped me and I started to have hope. Then he was like, “sorry I’m not authorized to work with Visa. Go to that bank.” He totally pointed to the one where ONLY assholes work. I swallowed my pride and put on my game face.
When I walked in I think I was actually doing the old “punch one hand with other fist” move. It seemed to intimidate this one queeny, fab-looking teller. So I went in for the kill. I was all, “I need to be connected with an International Visa Card Member Representative- IMMEDIATELY!”
And he totally snapped to it! They connected me with Visa Customer Services, who had some suggestions, but then just connected me to JP Morgan Chase directly. They told me that they just wanted to make sure I really was traveling and using the card abroad and all before they authorized more charges. I told them it was all good, and they made my card work within 5 minutes! AMAZING!
When I left the bank I actually started to appreciate the beauty of the city that I hadn’t noticed as I ran frantically from ATM to ATM. I looked around and kind of whimpered. I think I looked “moved” to the people around me, because I happened to be staring at a church, but I was like, “No, it’s that I’m RICH now!” But they didn’t speak English so I just smiled and pointed at the church- I mean, I was moved after all...
After this ordeal, I was relieved. But then I was like, how come the banks are so concerned about me now. What about when my address change was making credit card payments bounce? Or when a pending charge, which was a refundable deposit, over-drafted me? Yeah, none of that was my fault but IIIIII paid..? Least they could do is bitch out those Wiener bankers for me....
-H*
Pics from Vienna: http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2144383&l=dc479&id=22001348
Praha the beautiful!
What a fab way to venture off alone! After the excess of Oktoberfest, I was really excited to spend some time alone and really relax. Prague was everything I was looking for.
Here are some fave moments/tips from the trip:
1) My free walking tour was English-speaking so I thought it would be Americans and Brits, but it was almost all Australians and Kiwis. They kept telling me that they couldn’t believe that there were no Australian pubs in Europe. They were SHOCKED when I told them we don’t really have them in the States, either. Also, the tour guide kept calling the crosswalks “zebras,” and I learned that the Aussies and Kiwis call them “zebras,” too!
2) While on the tour I bought a soda, and for whatever reason I couldn’t find a trash can FOR HOURS!
It has been raining for basically my entire trip- I apologize for my hair in the pictures. (Note the hoodie I keep wearing)
3) I learned that they used to have a communist government here. While I know what communism is, I learned more about how it actually looked back then (till ‘92). For example, in the grocery store, they didn’t have fat free, low fat, and whole milk. There were only plain white cartons that said “milk”- no choices. Same went for cheese, bread, and yogurt. No packages had color or variety. How bland, right? I don’t know why that example really stuck out for me....
4)I found that the cheapest way to eat was to go to delis, although you do have to be a bit adventurous! I would go in, point to a meat or cheese that looked familiar and motion that I just wanted a little bit. Then I’d buy a roll, and make a sandwich. It always cost about 20-25Kc. To give you an idea, the Subway 6-inch special of the day was 59Kc, so it saved a lot of money! For breakfast, I would buy a pack of muffins for 23Kc, and I’d get 2. The same muffins were 59Kc each at little stands on the street. I say, “eat on the cheap!”
5) Another cheap find was free internet. A lot of cafes and restaurants offer free wifi. While you might think I’m suggesting you go in and by a coffee for the service, I’m not- TOO EXPENSIVE! haha I just sort of discretely squatted on the sidewalk NEAR the cafe and hacked the signal- the networks are not overly guarded like in the US.
6) Pilsner Urquell is the world’s first Pilsner, and it’s from the Czech Republic. In Prague, it’s so popular that you can actually buy it unpasteurized because it sells so fast! I’m not the biggest Pilsner drinker, but it did taste really good here...
7) Czech food is heavy. Dumplings, sauces, veggie purees, stewed meats. As I said, I mostly stuck to sandwiches haha And as a quick aside, they serve “grog” at most coffee shops/stands. I learned that it is basically mulled wine. To me that word sounds so horrible- like ordering “slop” to eat or something. “I’ll have the slop, with grog to drink. Thank you, kind wench...” Almost medieval or something, right?
So that was my stay in Prague. I HIGHLY recommend it! Cheap, fun, beautiful, cheap. Lovely! I’m on a bus to Vienna, Austria now. I’ll tell you all about it later!
-H*
ps. The bus driver just pulled over to check the luggage hold. I hope it’s not my bag! Sheeeeiitttt!!
Pics from Prague: http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2144266&l=3308c&id=22001348
Here are some fave moments/tips from the trip:
1) My free walking tour was English-speaking so I thought it would be Americans and Brits, but it was almost all Australians and Kiwis. They kept telling me that they couldn’t believe that there were no Australian pubs in Europe. They were SHOCKED when I told them we don’t really have them in the States, either. Also, the tour guide kept calling the crosswalks “zebras,” and I learned that the Aussies and Kiwis call them “zebras,” too!
2) While on the tour I bought a soda, and for whatever reason I couldn’t find a trash can FOR HOURS!
It has been raining for basically my entire trip- I apologize for my hair in the pictures. (Note the hoodie I keep wearing)
3) I learned that they used to have a communist government here. While I know what communism is, I learned more about how it actually looked back then (till ‘92). For example, in the grocery store, they didn’t have fat free, low fat, and whole milk. There were only plain white cartons that said “milk”- no choices. Same went for cheese, bread, and yogurt. No packages had color or variety. How bland, right? I don’t know why that example really stuck out for me....
4)I found that the cheapest way to eat was to go to delis, although you do have to be a bit adventurous! I would go in, point to a meat or cheese that looked familiar and motion that I just wanted a little bit. Then I’d buy a roll, and make a sandwich. It always cost about 20-25Kc. To give you an idea, the Subway 6-inch special of the day was 59Kc, so it saved a lot of money! For breakfast, I would buy a pack of muffins for 23Kc, and I’d get 2. The same muffins were 59Kc each at little stands on the street. I say, “eat on the cheap!”
5) Another cheap find was free internet. A lot of cafes and restaurants offer free wifi. While you might think I’m suggesting you go in and by a coffee for the service, I’m not- TOO EXPENSIVE! haha I just sort of discretely squatted on the sidewalk NEAR the cafe and hacked the signal- the networks are not overly guarded like in the US.
6) Pilsner Urquell is the world’s first Pilsner, and it’s from the Czech Republic. In Prague, it’s so popular that you can actually buy it unpasteurized because it sells so fast! I’m not the biggest Pilsner drinker, but it did taste really good here...
7) Czech food is heavy. Dumplings, sauces, veggie purees, stewed meats. As I said, I mostly stuck to sandwiches haha And as a quick aside, they serve “grog” at most coffee shops/stands. I learned that it is basically mulled wine. To me that word sounds so horrible- like ordering “slop” to eat or something. “I’ll have the slop, with grog to drink. Thank you, kind wench...” Almost medieval or something, right?
So that was my stay in Prague. I HIGHLY recommend it! Cheap, fun, beautiful, cheap. Lovely! I’m on a bus to Vienna, Austria now. I’ll tell you all about it later!
-H*
ps. The bus driver just pulled over to check the luggage hold. I hope it’s not my bag! Sheeeeiitttt!!
Pics from Prague: http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2144266&l=3308c&id=22001348
Tuesday, October 7, 2008
Pirates!
I read this article on the plane on the way to Munich. If you are interested in pirates (who isn't??), check it out.
http://www.iht.com/articles/2008/09/30/africa/pirates.php
-H*
http://www.iht.com/articles/2008/09/30/africa/pirates.php
-H*
The Magic Walk
So I never thought I’d be one of those bleeding heart exhibitionists who sits around typing on a Mac with black fingernails, but I’m inspired, so I had to plop down and write something.
I just finished 2 long, long (free) walking tours and really needed some alone time- I couldn’t bare to listen to more lecture, or even chitchat between tour goers. “Where are you from? Where have you been? Are you studying?....” Not that it wasn’t all pleasant, but I just wanted to think about all the information for a bit, to let the city sink in on its own..
So I decided to go for a walk along the river. Many of you who know me know that my favorite thing to do is go on long walks. Like runner’s get “runner’s high” I get “walker’s high”; I think I invented that term just now, actually. Also, it’s great to walk along any river. Some reasons:
1) Fancy buildings are built there
2) The other people are usually strolling for pleasure, so there is never a hurry
3) Only one side is noisy, so it’s good for thinking
4) Something interesting might happen along the waterfront
Today, for me, it was Number 4. I was wandering along the high bank of the river, when I noticed a young guy watching some swans below me on the lower bank. He was just standing there staring, and I thought, “Wow, that is so cute. He’s watching the birds,” so I wanted to take his picture. When I got my camera out, he looked up and saw me. So I smiled, and pretended to be taking a picture of anything other than him and kept walking.
A bit further down, I noticed a beautiful building with flower-filled window boxes. Window boxes are one of my favorite things- they require such care that you know someone nice lives inside. This was extra-true today. The window was opened and I could hear a lady inside singing a really beautiful song in Czech. So nice.
Maybe this whole entry is really boring, but for me it was just so interesting. My mind was busy thinking about all I had learned today, but then on my walk it cleared up. I saw that guy and those swans and that building and her voice. Magic Walk.
-H*
ps. I promise something more sensical later.
I just finished 2 long, long (free) walking tours and really needed some alone time- I couldn’t bare to listen to more lecture, or even chitchat between tour goers. “Where are you from? Where have you been? Are you studying?....” Not that it wasn’t all pleasant, but I just wanted to think about all the information for a bit, to let the city sink in on its own..
So I decided to go for a walk along the river. Many of you who know me know that my favorite thing to do is go on long walks. Like runner’s get “runner’s high” I get “walker’s high”; I think I invented that term just now, actually. Also, it’s great to walk along any river. Some reasons:
1) Fancy buildings are built there
2) The other people are usually strolling for pleasure, so there is never a hurry
3) Only one side is noisy, so it’s good for thinking
4) Something interesting might happen along the waterfront
Today, for me, it was Number 4. I was wandering along the high bank of the river, when I noticed a young guy watching some swans below me on the lower bank. He was just standing there staring, and I thought, “Wow, that is so cute. He’s watching the birds,” so I wanted to take his picture. When I got my camera out, he looked up and saw me. So I smiled, and pretended to be taking a picture of anything other than him and kept walking.
A bit further down, I noticed a beautiful building with flower-filled window boxes. Window boxes are one of my favorite things- they require such care that you know someone nice lives inside. This was extra-true today. The window was opened and I could hear a lady inside singing a really beautiful song in Czech. So nice.
Maybe this whole entry is really boring, but for me it was just so interesting. My mind was busy thinking about all I had learned today, but then on my walk it cleared up. I saw that guy and those swans and that building and her voice. Magic Walk.
-H*
ps. I promise something more sensical later.
Monday, October 6, 2008
The Czech Miracle!!
Today something amazing happened...
I couldn't believe it myself....
I SLEPT FOR 14 HOURS!!!!
AND THE ONLY REASON I WOKE UP WAS BECAUSE I FELT LIKE IT!!!!!
Seriously people- in the city that never sleeps, NEITHER DO I!!!
I know this doesn't really merit a post, but, no wait, IT DOES!
haha I'll post more later. When I actually get out of bed...
-H*
I couldn't believe it myself....
I SLEPT FOR 14 HOURS!!!!
AND THE ONLY REASON I WOKE UP WAS BECAUSE I FELT LIKE IT!!!!!
Seriously people- in the city that never sleeps, NEITHER DO I!!!
I know this doesn't really merit a post, but, no wait, IT DOES!
haha I'll post more later. When I actually get out of bed...
-H*
The Halfway Adventure
This all night train thing has turned out to be quite ridiculous! I left HOURS ago from Munich and, like an idiot, I didn’t really check the details when I bought my ticket to Prague. Apparently, it’s not non-stop! The first leg was a blast, I met this family from New Zealand and they shared my train car. When they walked in I was touching up my black nail polish and the dad, who definitely still had his Oktoberfest buzz, kept begging me to paint his nails. haha
They got off at the first stop and then I rode on to Regensberg (???), where I had to stop for 4 hours!!! The train station was closed so I had to wait outside and it was freezing! Being the survivor I am I knew I had to get out of the cold so...
I slept in a photo booth for 2 hours! haha It was cramped to say the least, but so much better than being outside. At 5 the station opened, so I got to go inside before making my connection. Now I’m in Schwandorf (again, ???) and about to leave for Prague. All this en route... DAMN...
-H*
Pic from the Phone Booth: http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=34681989&l=aab49&id=22001348
They got off at the first stop and then I rode on to Regensberg (???), where I had to stop for 4 hours!!! The train station was closed so I had to wait outside and it was freezing! Being the survivor I am I knew I had to get out of the cold so...
I slept in a photo booth for 2 hours! haha It was cramped to say the least, but so much better than being outside. At 5 the station opened, so I got to go inside before making my connection. Now I’m in Schwandorf (again, ???) and about to leave for Prague. All this en route... DAMN...
-H*
Pic from the Phone Booth: http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=34681989&l=aab49&id=22001348
Sunday, October 5, 2008
Leaving Germany, Flying Solo
So today is my last day in Germany, and the unofficial start to my trip. What do I mean by that you might ask? Well my sister Sarah shipped out this morning so from now on I'm flying SOLO! AAHH! I can't wait!
So Oktoberfest was AMAZING! I went back by myself today to see it one last time- who knows if I'll ever go back, ya know? It was soooo crowded because it is the last night of the fest. Everyone was bustling around all busy and I think the whole crowd was really savoring the moment, since it has to last AT LEAST until next year. I watched this old man sweep up one of the biergartens and he was sweeping up sausages and broken steins and pretzels and all and I got a bit sad, nostalgic even. What a fab event Oktoberfest was!
I tried a lot of the festbiers- Hofbrau, Lowenbrau, Spaten, Augustiner, Paulaner, Franziskaner, I think that's it. Paulaner was the BIG winner for festbier. The traditional soft pretzels win for best food. Best tent goes to the Hippodrome;it felt like the circus! Best biergarten goes to Lowenbrau. They have a big lion out front that growls, "LOWENBRAU!!!" every once and a while and when you are a bit tipsy it is quite entertaining to mimic haha
Aside from the fest I explored the city a bit and it was really pretty. We went to the Deutches Museum, which was supposed to be really cool, but totally sucked haha I found Munich to be super clean, not too expensive, convenient (a lot of people speak at least a little bit of English), very easy to get around on public trans, and it is easy/cheap to leave the city. Tonight I am headed to Prague on a night train. I'll tell you all about it later!
-H*
So Oktoberfest was AMAZING! I went back by myself today to see it one last time- who knows if I'll ever go back, ya know? It was soooo crowded because it is the last night of the fest. Everyone was bustling around all busy and I think the whole crowd was really savoring the moment, since it has to last AT LEAST until next year. I watched this old man sweep up one of the biergartens and he was sweeping up sausages and broken steins and pretzels and all and I got a bit sad, nostalgic even. What a fab event Oktoberfest was!
I tried a lot of the festbiers- Hofbrau, Lowenbrau, Spaten, Augustiner, Paulaner, Franziskaner, I think that's it. Paulaner was the BIG winner for festbier. The traditional soft pretzels win for best food. Best tent goes to the Hippodrome;it felt like the circus! Best biergarten goes to Lowenbrau. They have a big lion out front that growls, "LOWENBRAU!!!" every once and a while and when you are a bit tipsy it is quite entertaining to mimic haha
Aside from the fest I explored the city a bit and it was really pretty. We went to the Deutches Museum, which was supposed to be really cool, but totally sucked haha I found Munich to be super clean, not too expensive, convenient (a lot of people speak at least a little bit of English), very easy to get around on public trans, and it is easy/cheap to leave the city. Tonight I am headed to Prague on a night train. I'll tell you all about it later!
-H*
Friday, October 3, 2008
Oktoberfesting!
So I met up with my sister at the airport and we headed to our hotel. It was pretty easy to get to and really nice- score! We checked in really quickly and headed to the fest. I heard that everybody, even hip young adults, go ALL OUT with their traditional German outfits. I didn’t really believe it, but it’s totally true! I’m going to put up pics to prove it, but it was just so funny.
I pictured a family getting ready at home and the teenagers would be like, “Dad PLEASE! DO NOT wear the god damn leiderheusen!” And then the dad would be all, “It’s tradition!” and the kids would be so embarassed...
Doesn’t it seem like that’s how it would go? But actually, the whole family dresses up and even the kids aren’t too cool for it. In fact, they are really HAPPY to look all ridiculous all together. It was really really cute.
Then there was the food. and the beer. OH MY GOD! You go to the HUGE beer halls and they are PACKED from front to back. They look like huge stadiums or something and they are just packed with people at tables. The waitresses (didn’t see any waiters all day) run around carrying ten 1-liter steins at a time and weave their way through all the drunk people without ever spilling. As a waitress, it was really cool to see. I think I could get the hang of it, but DAMN!
The big halls serve food but all along the grounds of the festival they have little food tents, like at a fair in the US. There are lots of different things to try, but they do repeat after a while. The main things are- all different types of sausages with mustard, grilled chicken, rotisserie beef (they put a whole cow on a spit), fresh fish sandwiches with onion, different schnitzel sandwiches, different sweets and rolls, and my fave- the soft pretzel! We tried pretty much everything and it was all SOO good! Plus you need heavy food to soak up all the beer, because you can ONLY order 1-liter at a time. WOW!
Needless to say we ended the night with a fab little buzz and made lots of friends- that we’ll never see again... But it was a really fun night. When we go back I want to go on some of the rides. No joke, they BUILT a roller coaster just for the fest! I’ll tell you all about that soon. :)
-H*
Pics from Germany: http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2143651&l=ce105&id=22001348
I pictured a family getting ready at home and the teenagers would be like, “Dad PLEASE! DO NOT wear the god damn leiderheusen!” And then the dad would be all, “It’s tradition!” and the kids would be so embarassed...
Doesn’t it seem like that’s how it would go? But actually, the whole family dresses up and even the kids aren’t too cool for it. In fact, they are really HAPPY to look all ridiculous all together. It was really really cute.
Then there was the food. and the beer. OH MY GOD! You go to the HUGE beer halls and they are PACKED from front to back. They look like huge stadiums or something and they are just packed with people at tables. The waitresses (didn’t see any waiters all day) run around carrying ten 1-liter steins at a time and weave their way through all the drunk people without ever spilling. As a waitress, it was really cool to see. I think I could get the hang of it, but DAMN!
The big halls serve food but all along the grounds of the festival they have little food tents, like at a fair in the US. There are lots of different things to try, but they do repeat after a while. The main things are- all different types of sausages with mustard, grilled chicken, rotisserie beef (they put a whole cow on a spit), fresh fish sandwiches with onion, different schnitzel sandwiches, different sweets and rolls, and my fave- the soft pretzel! We tried pretty much everything and it was all SOO good! Plus you need heavy food to soak up all the beer, because you can ONLY order 1-liter at a time. WOW!
Needless to say we ended the night with a fab little buzz and made lots of friends- that we’ll never see again... But it was a really fun night. When we go back I want to go on some of the rides. No joke, they BUILT a roller coaster just for the fest! I’ll tell you all about that soon. :)
-H*
Pics from Germany: http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2143651&l=ce105&id=22001348
Thursday, October 2, 2008
In the Airport. What?
So about six months ago, I decided that I would plan an amazing adventure for myself. Why not, right? It’s not that I don’t love New York. Hell, I invented that t-shirt, but I just didn’t feel ready to settle down with her. I considered many options from the death-defying to the simply idiotic.
My good/bad ideas:
Tending to horses in Argentina
Tutoring/living with a family in Spain
Volunteering at a zoo in Australia
Singing lame standards on a cruise ship
Getting some degree. Somewhere.
Volunteering on the US/Mexico border
Tribal drumming- But for peace..?
Slinging cards in Vegas
Becoming a traveling spray tanner all of over the US
Fire eating on the streets of Europe...
While all of these are perfectly viable ideas (to me), I simply couldn’t choose which adventure to take. Fuck- I even thought about space camp!
Remarkably, one day it just came to me.
There were to be only 2 conditions:
Run away without a plan.
Do it on my own dime.
To make it happen, I started working like CRAZY. I’m talking 70-hour weeks, bitch! Honestly though, it was easy- I just stopped sleeping and eating and showering. As if that wasn’t enough, I also gave up my sublet to save money on rent.
That’s right, I chose to be homeless. Not in the classic sense of the word, though. A sort of fab/bohemian homelessness. You follow? For example, I would work a double, meet a friend out, crash at their place, and be out and on my way back to work before they woke up. To shower, I got a trial membership at New York Sports Club. It was TOO funny. I would go to the front desk and sign into the club, look at some machines, “stretch,” and then hit the showers. The worst bit was that the over-attentive staff TOTALLY noticed that I never worked out...
To say the least, the last 4 weeks of my time in New York were stressful and ridiculous and amazing and tiring and beautiful. And now here I am on a plane, leaving.
As I mentioned, I really don’t have a plan. I decided to start the whole adventure in Munich for Oktoberfest; I’ve always wanted to go. After that we’ll see. I’ll let you know. :)
-H*
My good/bad ideas:
Tending to horses in Argentina
Tutoring/living with a family in Spain
Volunteering at a zoo in Australia
Singing lame standards on a cruise ship
Getting some degree. Somewhere.
Volunteering on the US/Mexico border
Tribal drumming- But for peace..?
Slinging cards in Vegas
Becoming a traveling spray tanner all of over the US
Fire eating on the streets of Europe...
While all of these are perfectly viable ideas (to me), I simply couldn’t choose which adventure to take. Fuck- I even thought about space camp!
Remarkably, one day it just came to me.
There were to be only 2 conditions:
Run away without a plan.
Do it on my own dime.
To make it happen, I started working like CRAZY. I’m talking 70-hour weeks, bitch! Honestly though, it was easy- I just stopped sleeping and eating and showering. As if that wasn’t enough, I also gave up my sublet to save money on rent.
That’s right, I chose to be homeless. Not in the classic sense of the word, though. A sort of fab/bohemian homelessness. You follow? For example, I would work a double, meet a friend out, crash at their place, and be out and on my way back to work before they woke up. To shower, I got a trial membership at New York Sports Club. It was TOO funny. I would go to the front desk and sign into the club, look at some machines, “stretch,” and then hit the showers. The worst bit was that the over-attentive staff TOTALLY noticed that I never worked out...
To say the least, the last 4 weeks of my time in New York were stressful and ridiculous and amazing and tiring and beautiful. And now here I am on a plane, leaving.
As I mentioned, I really don’t have a plan. I decided to start the whole adventure in Munich for Oktoberfest; I’ve always wanted to go. After that we’ll see. I’ll let you know. :)
-H*
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